Replies

1. 
   philip | Jun 13, 2005 05:42am | #1

   Daggs,
   If you can get 20mm cannon shell casings from thr army or military these make excellent ferrules-as they are suitably tapered, and if you use the portion near the round (bullet) it is even better.They were good brass last time I saw them.
   Just thought I'd mention this , since everyone knows that one can get things like Tanks, second hand Migs and other exciting stuff virtually "from a dealer right near you" in the Sates.....
   Er, you will not be using live rounds .

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 13, 2005 08:39pm | #5

   20mm cannon shell   Or 0.50 for a 'Short Timers Stick'

   I call it HARD brass... Great stuff to work with if you can get it!

2. 
   tms | Jun 13, 2005 05:45am | #2

   Hey Daggs,

   I've used it very satisfactorily. If you spend a little extra for the harder, "L" class pipe, it's less likely to deform on you.

   I've thought about using brass or stainless, but always seemed to have the copper handy.

   Tom

3. 
   Steve50 | Jun 13, 2005 05:45am | #3

   I have turned a number of lathe chisel handles and have used regular 3/4" copper pipe for the ferrules.  If you need a slightly larger diameter, you could get a coupling.  I have epoxied them in place as well as the tang of the chisel.  Works very nicely.

4. 
   corners | Jun 13, 2005 06:36am | #4

   try here:

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30021&cat=1,41504

1. 
   jazzdogg | Jun 22, 2005 06:46am | #9

   Corners,

   I didn't see anything that said how thick the brass is - do you, by any chance, know what gauge they're using? If you've used them, how sturdy were they?

   Thanks,-Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

1. 
   Patto | Jun 22, 2005 07:42am | #10

   It wont be an issue for any but the largest of tools. These ferrules are side loaded, but a long way from the fulcrum so there is no need for thick walls once the ferrule is in place.

   David

2. 
   corners | Jun 22, 2005 06:03pm | #11

   An email to Lee Valley customer service asking the thickness will get you a quick answer:

   [email protected]

    

    

5. 
   DennisS | Jun 14, 2005 09:20am | #6

   Daggs -

   I've used both copper pipe and thin wall electrical conuit for ferrules on tool handles. One thing you might want to consider is removing the burr on the inside of one end of the tubing when it's cut to length. I leave the burr on one end and drive the ferrule on with the de-burred end first. The burr makes a nice transition from metal to wood at the visible end plus the burr makes it harder to slip it one.

   If you turn the tenon to a press fit to the ferrule, you can heat the ferrule, drive it on, and the metal will contract holding it one without needing any epoxy, etc.

   ...........
   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
   Dennis
6. 
   TomHigby | Jun 15, 2005 03:30am | #7

   I've made a number of handles for chisels, files. carving tools, turning tools, and have used copper and brass tubing.  For larger pieces lilke turning tools I've used brass compression nuts as wouold be used for wash-bowl faucets.  The hexagon shape looks very good and doesn't get in the way, and being threaded interiorly they stay put.  Incidently, old ball-bats for 50 cents or a dollar at yard sales make great handle stock.

   Tom

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 15, 2005 07:13pm | #8

   old ball-bats for 50 cents or a dollar at yard sales make great handle stock..

   NOW WHY did I not think of that!