Replies

1. 
   Pondfish | Dec 17, 2005 11:25pm | #1

   Tough call.  You'll need to get the softer/more absorptive part of the figure to take in more finish to get something of a "pop", but the finish needs to be clear.  [Of course, better "pop" happens when part of the figure is darker.]

   I'd try clear shellac (best grade you can find), starting with a 1# or lighter cut.  Before applying the shellac, I'd wet the wood to raise the grain, then very lightly sand it.  This step can help increase the difference in absorption between the soft/hard parts fo the figure, which in turn leads to more "pop."

   I'd continue to pad on the 1# cut until a surface film covers the wood.  Then the light cut isn't helping anymore, so I'd go to a 2-3# cut until I had the finish I wanted.

   A big plus of this approach is if you don't like the result, soak a rag in denatured alcohol and wipe the shellac off, and try something else.   But I've used shellac a lot on CM with good results.  I use "platinum" grade dewaxed shellac obtained on-line from shellac.net

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
1. 
   DonC | Dec 18, 2005 12:48am | #2

   Sounds like good advice. Thank you. I'll give it a try.

2. 
   notDusty | Dec 18, 2005 01:13am | #3

    Hi DonC ,

                  I have finished Fiddleback and Curly Maple with a clear lacquer finish that is called water white or clear. There are many quality brands and most formulate some in water white . There is no Amber or Yellow cast or tint to it .

                   The grain on the figured Maple will "pop" no matter what clear finish you use .

                         good       luck     dusty

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 18, 2005 02:54am | #4

   I like Pondfish's advice, but would caution that the maple will turn amber--just not immediately.  The color change is not as fast or as dramatic as the darkening of cherry, but it does occur. 

   By the way, shellac is very good about not darkening over time, in contrast to most oil based finishes.  I don't think it "pops" figure as well as BLO, but there are always tradeoffs. 

    

4. 
   Paul_Snyder | Dec 18, 2005 10:19am | #5

   Don,

   Basically, I'd say your two goals are at odds with one another. To get the greatest pop from the figure, you need to add some color to the wood. Barring that, using a solvent base finish (shellac, lacquer, or a very light colored oil-base finish) will do a better job than water-base finishes.

   I'm pasting a copy of a post from the old Knots forum here in case the old forum disappears. Here's a link to the original thread - http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=24338.20

   Old Forum Post ______________

   It's not that I think that oils don't have a place in popping the figure, rather I believe you need a film forming finish to get the full effect. I also believe that you can get more "pop" by using a dye than an oil. I'll explain my thinking... This may be a little long. :(

   I'll start by referring to David Sorg's article, "Varnishing Secrets," in the February 2004 issue. The first line reads, "To bring out the full color, depth, and figure in wood, a finish must be as clear and level as possible." David achieves this with an oil-base varnish (a film forming finish) and the pictures show the results (outstanding).

   In my mind, and to my eye, a film forming finish acts like a "lens" on the wood. And it doesn't have to be thick! A french polish finish is VERY thin, but the color, depth, and figure are all featured wonderfully. The same benefits can be realized by using other film forming finishes, including lacquer, shellac, some water-base finishes, and varnishes (including a quality polyurethane). It's the 'lens' that produces the look of depth. Some specialty finishes are referred to as "3D." That's because the film is thicker than normal but very clear and polished. It creates a 3-dimensional look that gives it the name. The lens is thicker and the effect is greater.

   On to the point... Take a look at this sample board;

   View Image
   Click picture for larger view

   This curly maple sample has linseed oil on the left, nothing in the middle, and dye on the right. A few coats of lacquer cover the entire piece. Which section has the greatest amount of shimmer (pop)? To me, all three sections have great shimmer. But the added color of the linseed oil on the left and the dye on the right produce more contrast which heightens the effect. Does the oil pop the figure better than the rest? ...not in my opinion. Oil, or an oil-base product is not necessarily the key to popping the figure in wood. Dyes do an equally good job, and have an infinite color range.

   Here's another example. I took a piece of birch ply scrap and divided it into 8 squares, each about 7" x 7". In each square, I started with a different first step. Here's the products I used;

   View Image

   Here's a list of what was applied to each square (in no certain order);

5. Lacquer only
6. A dilute dye - close to linseed oil
7. Linseed oil
8. Watco natural danish oil
9. Benjamin Moore poly
10. Minwax poly
11. Waterlox original
12. Blond dewaxed shellac

    And here's the test panel;

    View Image

    I applied one coat of each of the products, and then sprayed lacquer over everything. The sun wasn't out today, so the shimmer effect isn't that great, but they all have it. Can you tell which product was used on the bare wood? If I didn't label it, I wouldn't know myself. They all look great! The oils with the most color (linseed, danish, and Waterlox) are slightly darker and the contrast makes a slight difference/improvement. By using dye, I could increase the contrast and the overall effect even more!

    Always do a sample, the larger the better, before committing to a finish on an actual project.

Paul
http://www.finishwiz.com