Replies

1. 
   ChasStanford | Oct 31, 2002 11:28pm | #1

   For an entry table I'd only use four.  Pick the table up by its apron, not the top.

1. 
   ChasStanford | Nov 01, 2002 01:44pm | #3

   I think the point behind setting them in a slot is to accommodate the movement across the width of the top.  FWIW, I would put one on each side.

   Edited 11/1/2002 9:10:18 AM ET by CHASSTANFORD

1. 
   davamoore | Nov 01, 2002 04:22pm | #4

   I think the point behind setting them in a slot is to accomodate the movement across the width of the top. 

   Agreed, if you were using a slot to attach buttons or angled-metal tabletop fasteners.  In this case, the slots in the short aprons would allow the buttons or fasteners to move side-to-side with expansion/contraction and -- if you had the space in the long aprons to cut the slots deep enough -- could allow for in-and-out movement, as the tabletop will expand/contract from front-to-back (i.e., across the grain).

   However, figure-8 style tabletop clips are attached to the aprons and tabletop using countersunk, drilled holes and screws.  As the tabletop expands, the clip doesn't slide from side-to-side, it pivots around the screws.  This would work on the short aprons, as the across the grain movement would cause the clips to pivot toward the front and back of the table as the top expands and then back toward the center as it contracts.  However, if clips were attached to the front and back (long) aprons, isn't there the possibility that the clips won't pivot but will, rather, push in and out?  And, if so, either the tabletop or clips might give and break?

   A small chance, perhaps.

   DavidLook, I made a hat -- Where there never was a hat!

1. 
   ChasStanford | Nov 01, 2002 05:48pm | #5

   Yes, I think you're right and I stand corrected. 

   My preference are wood buttons, or the metal clips with only one screw hole with the other end floating in a slot in the apron.

1. 
   davamoore | Nov 01, 2002 06:06pm | #6

   I agree... aesthetically, I prefer the wood buttons, but am occasionally too lazy to make them when I run out.

   I've found that my biscuit/plate joiner is perfect for quickly cutting the slots for the metal clips.  (OK, I confess, it was someone else's idea, but I found that it works.)

   DavidLook, I made a hat -- Where there never was a hat!

2. 
   davamoore | Nov 01, 2002 12:33am | #2

   Doc, I'm also assuming that the grain runs along the length of the top (i.e., along the 30" dimension) and not the depth (the 18" dimension).  That's traditional, but sometimes it's good to check...

   Anyway, if that's the case you'll want to attach the clips along the shorter, 18" edge.  The top will expand and contract across the grain; placing the clips along the short edge will allow that to happen without damaging either the frame or the top.  (In other words, the clips will move side-to-side as necessary.)  If you were to place the clips along the long edge, the top expansion might push and pull the frame and/or top apart.

   David

   Look, I made a hat -- Where there never was a hat!

3. 
   KraigY | Nov 01, 2002 08:53pm | #7

   Hi All-

   Thanks very much for the responses-a wealth of information as always. 

   Just as I had thought, I went way overboard on the number of the clips.  I placed 2 of them on each of the back, front, and sides. Need to remedy.

   Now that I have thought about it a bit more, it seems to me that these fasteners will necessarily fight each other if they are placed on all 4 sides of a top - in other words, the clips allowing movement cross-grain will resist longitudinal movement and vice versa.  Given that the magnitude of the latter is relatively small in comparison, should the clips on the front and back (grain running length of top, left-right) be removed all together?

   Doc

1. 
   davamoore | Nov 01, 2002 09:25pm | #8

   Doc, I'd go ahead and remove the clips from the front and back of the table, as you're thinking of doing.  I'm assuming that the 4 remaining clips (2 each othe short aprons) are secure... and that's really all you need:  something to keep the top on, not necessarily permanently bonded!

   If on the off chance you find that there is some mild warp in the top and -- thus -- an unacceptable gap between the front apron and the top, you could still secure it, albeit very carefully.  Assuming your front apron is thick enough, you could cut a single slot in the back of the front apron and then use a single tabletop clip fastener (e.g., http://www.rockler.com item # 34215) to pull the top down into alignment with the top of the apron.

   However, if you do this be sure that there is plenty of room for movement (say 3/16" to 1/4") between the end of the clip and the bottom of the slot.  If your clip pulls out due to shrinkage, no biggie; on the other hand, you definitely don't want expansion to cause any problems.

   DavidLook, I made a hat -- Where there never was a hat!

1. 
   trialnut | Nov 02, 2002 04:15pm | #9

   Just angle the clips rather than set them in line with or perpendicular to the grain. Then they are free to move in either direction as they will pivot instead of push or pull. This lets you use as many as you feel comfortable with.The Professional Termite