Replies

1. 
   tom77 | Feb 18, 2007 06:08pm | #1

   One way that will work is to flood the wood with boiled linseed oil.  Keep it wet for 30 minutes, then wipe off the remainder completely.  Then let it cure for two or three days.  This coat of BLO will really pop the grain.  Once the BLO has cured, you can apply coats of varnish to suit your finishing goals.

   You can also use shellac after the BLO, if you prefer it as a final finish.  Either finish will look great.

   There are other approaches that will work, but these are pretty simple and straightforward.

   Good luck, Tom.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 18, 2007 08:31pm | #2

   On curly cherry and maple--the "blotching" IS the figure.  So oil (or oil/varnish mix for a bit faster cure) will do a fine job of pop'ping the figure.  Shellac makes a great top coat for cherry, though the dark shellacs (garnet, etc.) that really look nice on cherry, must be applied evenly on maple to avoid problems from overlaps and the like. 

    

3. 
   Keef | Feb 18, 2007 10:59pm | #3

   Dick,

   Some time ago I read in Jeff Jewett's finishing book that using dye on raw wood  before the finsihing coats really pops the grain.  I've used his dye method on a number of projects and, when combined with the finishing coats, produces magnificent grain popping results.  Use a test board to see how the results will look after a finish is applied.  I start with a pretty thick test board and just plane the surface off when its time to use it again or start over.

   On maple, I've used a "dilute burnt umber" over  "lemon yellow".  Looks really bad until the finishing coats.  On cherry, "diluted Cardinal Red" well sanded, then "Burnt Umber" then "Cherry".  Use 220 between each color.

   On mahogany and walnut, "lemon yellow" then "cardinal Red" then dark stain then finishing coats. Give it a rich, deep, dark antique mahonagy look.

   I thought it was a lot of money @ $10 bucks a color (which it is) but is is worth it.  The dyes add so much versitility to the coloration.  I only have the four colors.

   Jeff J. also says to use BLO or Tung oil over the dye, under the top coats, as  Tom pointed out.  I am currently doing a small box out of cherry and walnut using that method (dye, Tung Oil, Schellac).  One thing I've found is that the Tung oil has taken an inordinatly long time to dry on this project.  IN fact that is why I am here on the forum.....

   I will try to post a pic or two of the test board and the work in progress.

   KB

    

4. 
   Keef | Feb 18, 2007 11:40pm | #4

   See http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=fw-knots&msg=34360.1 for a pretty good discussion by SteveS on the subject....

   KB

5. 
   fussy | Feb 20, 2007 07:24am | #5

   Dick,

   Steveschone is absolightly root--blotching IS the figure.  If you want to "pop" the figure and minmize the blotch, sand the cherry to at least p220--even 320 before oiling.  This will smooth the wood and limit the amount of oil it can absorb giving you the look you want without the blotching.  I don't think you'd have to sand the maple as far, but what could it hurt?  Try it on scrap.  You might be amazed.

   If you find you like that, but want it darker, put the cherry out in the sun (it will be back some day) for a day or two and see what happens.  If you want to experiment further (still on the scrap) try garnet shellac.  If too much try super blond.  In any case shellac and wax will make a beautiful finish.  Post some pictures when you're done.

   Steve

   There are two secrets to keeping one's wife happy.

   1.  Let her think she's having her own way.

   2.  Let her have her own way. President  Lyndon Baines Johnson

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/19/2007 11:29 pm ET by fussy

6. 
   beachfarm | Feb 20, 2007 04:20pm | #6

   Cherry and Maple respond well to card scrapers. In fact, if there's any figure at all, they will scream after scraping. Everyone has their theory, but it's hard to argue with the results of scraping figured woods. It's rare that I'll sand a piece...

   Before finishing, set the piece aside where it can be exposed to general sunlight. Not blasting rays, just general, warming sunlight. Rotate the piece often. Set a scrap of the Cherry you're using under the bench (out of the light) and use it to gauge your chest as it ages in the light. I usually go for a week, sometimes two. When you're ready, flood the piece with BLO and turps in a 50/50 mix. When it stops absorbing oil (two coats, usually) wipe it down and set it aside to dry. When it's fully dried - topcoat with a traditional varnish, not polyurethane.

   It's simple and inexpensive. You'll like the results now. You'll love the results in a year or two.