Replies

1. 
   Jeff_Jewitt | Mar 03, 2000 12:40am | #1

   *
   Putty can be various forms and the glue/sawdust one is as good as any ---- as long as you're not staining it afterwards.
   My only warning would be to tape off around the crack, if you get the mixture on the bare wood, it will finish differently than the rest of the wood (just like if you got glue on the wood and didn't remove it completely

   Jeff Jewitt

   http://www.homesteadfinishingprod.com

1. 
   chris_lacy | Mar 07, 2000 01:26am | #2

   *try taking a scewdriver and using the shaft to press hard on the edge. this will roll over the edge a little and close the gap. then sand it smooth again. of course this only works if you are sanding down the mitered corners anyway.

1. 
   John_Adams | Mar 28, 2000 03:29pm | #3

   *Rodger, and others,In my opinion, the glue and sawdust must be confined to painted projects, and writers do craftspersons a disservice by mentioning it. The grain filler, with or without stain can be depended upon to fill the hairlines you have, but be patient and work it deeply into the grain with a squeege, and around the cracks, leave it proud on the surface (don't rub it off completely), to be sanded with 320 on a hard flat block (no padding or cushion). I have used Wood-Kote brand of paste wood filler, in appropriate colors, and after sanding the silica flush, you can recoat to blend any disturbed surrounding wood. Visit their website to find a supplier near you. For some reason, most finish retailers know nothing about "paste wood fillers", and will offer many, many unacceptable substitutes. I think I saw a similar product in a Behlen brochure. Good luck

1. 
   CStanford_ | Mar 29, 2000 07:30pm | #4

   *Leave the gaps. If you try to hide them with putty you will invariably draw more attention to them than if you had left them alone. 1/64" is not that much. If you consistently end up with the same gaps when you use the joinery method you mentioned then consider changing your methodology or check your machine set up carefully. Perhaps a new lock-miter bit would cure the problem in the future. IMO, never have these type of bits resharpened. When they become dull, dump 'em.

1. 
   Rodger_Ederer | Apr 01, 2000 04:30pm | #5

   *Thanks for the comments. I used the sawdust and glue method and finished with Watco. The result is generally good and only a small part of the filled cracks are noticeable. And you would have to look for them. I should have filtered the saw dust as some of the larger grains are noticeable. Rodger Ederer

2. 
   Jim_O'Donnell | Apr 09, 2000 04:48am | #6

   *I use blonde shellac (instead of glue) to blend the sawdust into the cracks. You could also use darker shellacs to accomplish this goal. After you press the "putty" made from the shellac/walnut dust, let it dry overnight. Lightly sand. Next, simply brush one or two coats of the same shellac over the entire area. This works better than glue, because glue can leave a shiny spot after sanded, that is tougher than the surrounding surface of your piece. (which could lead to "shallowing out" the area around the repair). After one or two coats of shellac is done, the repaired piece is invisible. Try it! You can then finish almost any finish over the shellac. This is a method described by Michael Dresdner in American Woodworker magazine - April 1994 pg. 20. I use this method on expensive humidors that I build. You will be astounded how good it works!Jim

3. 
   Whit_Ballantine | Apr 20, 2000 02:21am | #7

   *I've had really good results using a paste of the finish I'm planning to use and sanding dust from the wood I'm using to fill "cracks."I recently made up some table tops from quarter sawn 1" x 1" Jatoba strips (the tear-out is another story - thickness sand, don't plane, but a beautiful wood) and discovered a couple minute voids at the glued edges. A rather thick mixture of sanding dust and the sanding sealer I planned to use for the first two coats (applied a little proud of the surface to allow for some shrinkage) hid the cracks and completely disappeared when the sanding sealer was applied by brush. These repairs were, of course, sanded at 220 grit after 36 hours drying. I also used this paste to fill a couple spots of deeper tearout which were too deep sand down to. Worked great.As I said, this beautiful wood needs to be thickness sanded, not planed as I did. We all live and learn, I guess, but only if we're paying attention.And yes. I need to check square on my jointer a little closer and use cauls when setting up the edge gluing. I should never have those "cracks," no matter how small.

4. 
   Don_Kondra | Jun 01, 2000 07:04pm | #8

   *I find the sawdust and glue is a poor choice for filling. If the crack is wide enough I use 5 minute epoxy. It dries quickly and will reflect the color of the surrounding wood.And Roger, you were using Watco anyhow. This is one of the best finishes for pore or crack filling. Sand your second coat with wet/dry 320 or finer. The slurry from sanding will fill the cracks and dry as hard as nails..... good color match too.