Hey folks…
I’ve got to build a kitchen cabinet for a client from MDF that will have a fairly glossy paint finish, and will as a consequence of their design have fasteners through visible areas. Any suggestions for the best filler for this application?
Thanks in advance…
PaulB
Replies
Clawlock sealer. It works better on MDF than anything else. Only available thru industrial suppliers.
Bondo works well, too. If there are any holes that need to be filled and it will have a glossy finish, you can fill it with Bondo and brush on a coat of polyester resin, thinned by about 1/3 to 1/2 with the recommended thinner. Hardens the surface and is very sandable, leaving good tooth but smoother edges.
I recently made a large (and very heavy) toybox out of MDF for a friend and when i was flush trimming a certain part with a router and a flush trim bit the bearing(sp?) flew off and it cut a pretty big chunk out and I found the sawdust from MDF and glue makes an incredible filler, sands smooth and wouldn't be noticable under paint.
Ryan
Edited 6/2/2006 9:02 pm ET by RyanC
Edited 6/2/2006 9:03 pm ET by RyanC
I prefer to use staples because of the smaller shank diameter than nails, and it doesn't split or bulge the edge being shot into. The fasteners are only to hold the parts until the glue dries, which is stronger than any screws or nails anyway.
I follow this with the lightweight spackleing. It goes on, dries fast, and sands so easy with a RO. and it takes paint just like the MDF.
Using dowels or biscuits will keep the visible screws to a minimum. My shop shop usually uses a crown stapler to put the boxes together - much easier to hide the staple than a screw. But regular spackle, drywall compound will do just fine.
DR
Thanks for the advice guys... greatly appreciated!
PaulB
On paint grade work I use a light indoor wood filler from Dap or Elmer. It isn't fancy but it can be worked with fingers, or a knife, dries fast, sands excellent and after primer it is invisible. The key to paint grade (which is harder than stain in my opinion) is the prep work. First I fill and sand every joint and crack with the putty. Next, I prime with a sandable white shellac primer like Zinzer's BIN primer or a automotive style lacquer based primer. Then I sand the primer with 220 and repeat two or three times untill the primer is flawless. For the actual colour coat I use a lacquer based colour finish. Sherman Williams has a limited selection of basic colours which the normal stores can modify a little, if you have a CC division near you they can custom match any colour you want in lacquer. I have also used automotive paints with success although it makes me nervous because I worry about the finish cracking with the expansion cycles of the wood. The guys at PPG told me if the paint can withstand the movements of a plastic car like a Saturn of Corvette then wood should be a cake walk. That made sense to me.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
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