Replies

1. 
   blewcrowe | Apr 16, 2007 06:26pm | #1

   A couple outfits make a paste filler that when dry, is transparent. Behlen maybe? I have it and use it: works great; takes a couple doses to fill in deep holes. I'm just not in my shop today to check the brand on the label.

1. 
   Kevin | Apr 16, 2007 07:14pm | #2

   I've never worked with the transparent filler, although I have heard of it. If it works then I'd say use it. Anything else makes the chip-out look worse rather than better, in my experience. Usually I will either sand it out or leave it alone. Regular wood filler just enhances the problem and make it look horrible.

1. 
   blewcrowe | Apr 16, 2007 10:34pm | #3

   There's an alternative I mentioned in another thread that works pretty darned well, albeit not without a setup challenge ........

   Take a good putty like Zar and mix in transtint dyes until you match the color. I've done some that are nearly impossible to detect. The hell is in the color mixing.

1. 
   Kevin | Apr 16, 2007 10:41pm | #4

   That sounds like it would probably work good with a stained finish. But with a clear finish the color is only half of the problem... the chatoyance or luster of the wood fibers reflecting light can't be replicated with a wood putty. There's another word for it that escapes me at the moment... But essentially what gives the putty away is that it doesn't reflect light the same as the wood fibers. From on direction it'll look perfect but if you change either the light source or your perspective, what looked perfect before now stands out like a sore thumb.

1. 
   blewcrowe | Apr 16, 2007 10:49pm | #5

   That's true. If you're working with qs oak with a chatoyance, you are SOL. Use the transparent stuff. It works well; just takes 2-3 coats depending on depth of hole.

2. 
   CoachB | Apr 28, 2007 12:12am | #6

   I will pass on a trick I got watching David Marks on TV. He was fixing birdseye maple and curly maple. I tried it on Tiger Maple and it worked quite well.

   Take cynoacr??(crazy glue) clear 10 second stuff and fill the chip out area. You can also use clear 5 min epoxy and knife it in. When you sand it flat you might think you ruined the spot, but when the finish hits it, it goes clear with a lot of depth. It is very hard to find when everything is finished and rubbed out.

   PS. Don't use the accerator with this application..the white stuff will kill the fix.

    

1. 
   tko | Apr 28, 2007 03:43am | #7

   thanks i'll give it a try

1. 
   sapwood | Apr 29, 2007 10:05am | #9

   There is also a very clear shellac or lacquer stick available. This is applied with a hot knife. The beauty is that it can be done after all finishing is complete. (If you're good with a hot knife. If you're not so good, practice...)

2. 
   observer | Apr 30, 2007 11:10pm | #12

   Never tried the cyanoacrylate, but I'll second the recommendation for epoxy. I have found that the slower cure epoxy does seem to dry clearer than the 5 or even 30 minute stuff.

1. 
   CoachB | May 01, 2007 03:07am | #13

   Glad it worked out...now that you've got the epoxy thing going on, think of the possibilities.

   Saw dust in epoxy to match, fill and plug unstained wood.

   Use tints and dyes that go with oil base to color your epoxy to match.

   Also....epoxy inlays...yup carve or route your line or whatever and then fill with contrasting epoxy, dry & sand and boom...inlay...cover with clear coat and it looks reeeeallll good.

   Glad I could help.

   Edited 4/30/2007 8:09 pm ET by CoachB

1. 
   observer | May 01, 2007 07:36am | #14

   I've found dust in the filler to show up much more than epoxy alone so generally don't use it. Saw an article about ten or twelve years ago in FWW about kerf-bent mirror frames so made one with real tight ring yellow cedar and dark red epoxy kerf filler. Not sure where it ended up but it worked pretty well.

1. 
   CoachB | May 01, 2007 10:41pm | #15

   All this works better in figured wood...fool the eye type thing.

   I use the 5min alot when I am in production mode and am putting together sub assys and don't want to wait...quick and easy.

3. 
   PeteBradley | Apr 28, 2007 04:39pm | #8

   I had good results recently by using a small carving gouge to turn the chip into a wide, shallow depression. The eye doesn't notice the smooth surface as it would the divot. This wouldn't work everywhere and would be more noticeable if a high-gloss finish was used.

   Pete

4. 
   Cincinnati | Apr 29, 2007 03:27pm | #10

   CA (cyanoacrylate) aka super glue. Turners fill the voids with it. The fill can be turned and polished. I just bought some yesterday to use in turning maple burl.

   Has anyone used CA as a finish?

1. 
   BruceS | Apr 30, 2007 04:51pm | #11

   I just saw CA glue used Sat. as a finish for turned pens.  Didn't see the whole process, but the results were great.  He used the hot stuff and no accelerator.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S.