Replies

1. 
   scooter1 | Dec 22, 2004 08:25pm | #1

   Thats what I would do, too. The finer the better. The best can be found
   inside your sander. Sawdust is not thixotropic however - it floats in
   the mixed epoxy where as thixotropic fillers modify viscosity thoroughly
   top to bottom. You are better off with a commercially made filler designed for the particular epoxy you are using.

   I use West Systems and they have some excellent fillers which can be stained. This would be the ideal approach.

   Regards,
   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 23, 2004 12:53am | #3

   Another approach is to color the epoxy with polyester colorant (available at marine fiberglass suppliers for gelcoats).  After mixing the West Systems Epoxy (very important) I'll thoroughly mix in dark brown ands then just swirl in a bit of black with a toothpick and pour.  This results in a more natural varigated fill.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   The more things change ...

   We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized.  I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.

   Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC

2. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 23, 2004 12:50am | #2

   bobb

   System 3 mixed with a lot of fine sawdust, say out of an orbital sander, is the way to go.  I do have a question, though.  Did the checks occur after you glued up, or were they already there.  Reason being, if the board is still moving, the check will continue down the board.  You may have to put in a dutchman, or butterfly dovetail, to help keep the wood stable.  That may not be the look your clients are going for.  Be careful not to get the epoxy on the surrounding surface.  My experience has been that it doesn't take finish at all, and will be extremely noticeable if you smear it around the crack.  I always use tape when repairing crotches this way.  Good luck.

   JC

3. 
   GHR | Dec 23, 2004 01:01am | #4

   Sawdust with epoxy will make the sawdust much darker. I expect that will be ok.

   If you put a butterfly in, put it in from the back and only part way through.

1. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 23, 2004 08:10am | #5

   As far as the sawdust goes, I agree.  I only recommended it because it is walnut.  If it were cherry, or maple, I would not have offered it up.  As far as the butterfly goes, I don't think putting it in on the back side will yield the stopping power, if the board is still moving.  I've been building natural edged desks and tables out of slabs for about 20 years, so I am kind of new to it, but my experience has been that the check will still creep through the board unless you reinforce both sides.  Just a thought.

   JC

1. 
   BobB | Dec 26, 2004 08:33pm | #6

   thanks for the note.  our slabs have been sitting in a shed in Gardner CO for around 20 years.  we put them in a solar kiln for 10 days or so, and the wood seems extremely stable.  the finished table is going to reside in Santa Fe NM, a very dry and high spot, so it will be exposed to minimal changes in humidity.  we're still thinking about the cracks and will begin experimenting on scrap next week.  thanks again for the benefit of your experience.