I am getting ready to finish a cherry end table. In the course of edge banding and in the half blind dovetailed drawer, I have a couple gaps that are just big enough not to ignore. I plan to finish with Tried and True Oil Varnish. If I combine some sanding dust in this oil and work that slurry in, might I get a nice looking fill? Appreciate any alternate thoughts…..
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I'd take epoxy and mix in some fine cherry sawdust, I use the dust from 220 grit sandpaper. You'll also want to put painters tape (it's blue or lacquer tape which is light green) this will limit the over flow of epoxy, reduce sanding, and lower the chances of sanding through veneered plywood. And to further reduce the amount of sanding a cab. scraper can be used -- its worked for me.
Thanks, MSD. I thought that masking off the area would be a good idea, especially if this is done prior to finishing. The oil varnish slurry I was going to do would have been in between coats 1 and 2, but this technique seems like winner. I got plenty of epoxy and stuff to make dust with. I'll give it a whirl.
I tried sawdust with Tried and True on cherry long table top joint cracks without success.
Jack, glad to get your comment. Thanks. I just wrote MSD, and let know that his solution seems to be a good one. Using long set epoxy, I let it setup a bit, and then I wiped the gap across its length before removing the tape. Looks real good. I think when it's dry tomorrow, sanding should be really minimal. We'll see what shrinkage it produces. My Tried and True just arrived so I am anxious to use it. Did you like your result?
I know there are 5 min., 30 min., and one hour epoxy my first choice is to use the 5 min. epoxy. I have learned through experience that the 5 min. epoxy sets up firmly in a couple hour and is ready to sand. Were as the other epoxies I've had to wait until the next day to sand.
Talk to you all later - MSD
I've used Tried and True very successfully on several projects and will continue to use.
You've probably already used - I've been away for a few days and didn't get your message.
I just wiped on a coat on two off cuts to try it out before it goes on the project. Anxious to see how it goes. While wet, it sure looks good.
OK, I masked off and applied a slurry of dust and epoxy. Before I removed the tape, I let the epoxy set a bit, and then wiped it across the gap. When I removed the tape, it was a real nice looking fill. I'm sure when it's dry it will look great. Thanks much.
Ike
Ike, I'm glad everything worked out... There was one important point that I forgot to mention (you might all ready know this???) anyway if you plan on staining a piece the epoxy has to be tented the stain color, for epoxy does not accept stain.
I am going to apply a dye to deal with some color differences, and then follow that with a glaze. I am guessing that the glazing step will do the trick, although the epoxy seams to have colored the sawdust about like a finish would. I'm not too worried. This looks like a great solution. Thanks again.
can I use warmed hide glue/sanding dust mix for a stained finish?
Did you ever get any feed back or experiment mixing fine sawdust with Hide Glue? What was the out come?
no feedback, testing now will know in a few days
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