Hey Y’all, I come here to browse all the time and have learned much. I’ve just been given some red cedar planks. The’re rough sawn and need to be planed and jointed to straight and true edges. The planks have been sitting in a barn in N. Ga. for around 15 years. I’m gonna use the wood to build a cedar chest for wifey. Now to my question. I’m trying to cut out and around the knots and bad places in th wood. But thats alot of waste. Alot of the knots are tight but cracked in the center from shrinkage. Is there some way to fill the cracks in the knots and save them for caracter? Will saving them spoil the final product? I plan to finish with boiled linseed oil cut with mineral spirits and follow up with orange shelac cut with alcohol. Chest is gonna be 40″x 20″x18″. Any advice would be appreciated. Rick W.
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Replies
I think epoxy will work (someone will chastise me if it doesn't :-)
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I've filled a number of defects such as cracked knots using both the Minwax two part filler and West epoxy. The Minwax filler repeatedly clogs sandpaper, evenb after 24 hours of curing time, and does not hold pigment color well. The two part epoxy takes powdered pigment color very well and holds the color throughout even after curing and sanding. In cherry, black often makes the epoxy filler look like just one more pitch pocket.
A uniformly colored repair might be more obvious in cedar though. You can color the repair to match the lightest color in the knot, stain and seal the entire piece, and then "paint" in darker coloring using shellac colored with added colors of powdered pigment. I think you can find more info on this in both Jeff Jewitt's book "Great Wood Finishes" and Michael Dresdner's books. One suggestion would be to practice on scrap, INCLUDING applying at least one coat of finish over the tinted shellac. I did not do this, and my pretty good color match became somewhat noticeable because the pigment color added to the shellac became more intense after coated with finish. I have used pigments from both Moser and http://www.homesteadfinishing.com and found that the latter dissolved more easily in shellac. Good luck.
I don't fill the knot, unless the product needs to "air-tight". Most of my customers like the aged look. I'm doing my kitchen cabinets in 200 year old pecky cypress, and my wife told me she'd shoot me if I filled the knots.
I do agree though, if you need to fill them as I've done in the past, I used West epoxy. I've never tried to stain over it. I finish the piece with a good marine spar varathane.
Len (Len's Custom Woodworking)
Rick,
Why choose wood with knots if you need to fill them? I guess every one has their own ideas, but if clean and smooth is what you want then I would suggest clear wood, you'll be happier in the end. Most cedar developes it's own patina and I would leave the interior unfinished for it's aromatic qualities. Good luck, BD
I'd think that filling the cracked knots with epoxy (or whatever) would stablize them. It's not like he's filling them with Plastic Wood :-( Since a cedar chest is generally used to keep buggies out, filling any tiny cracks would be a wise thing.
The red cedar may still need an aromatic cedar lining to smell like a Lane though.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 6/4/2002 1:32:58 AM ET by forest_girl
FG the cedar is the aromatic red cedar found in N. Georgia. A neighbor cut it out of the Savannah river basin 15 years ago. Before the US Army Corps of Engineers impounded The Richard B. Russell Resevoir (sp?). Thanks for your help. He probably has about 600 bf. He also has about that much walnut cut from the same area. The guy is 84 years old and a retired woodworker. He said I could have what I needed if I'd help him out on his place and as long as I built something with it. LIKE THERE IS ANY OTHER USE FOR WOOD.
Fantastic! Does he need any more help? LOL :-) forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
RICK , 5 MIN EPOXY AND SOME FINE SAWDUST WILL WORK REAL GOOD,LET IT DRY THEN, USE A HAND SCRAPER TO CLEAN IT OFF, THEN APPLY YOUR FINISH. GOOD LUCK MARK CHERRY CABINETS.
I'll chime in for West Epoxy. To get a more natural look I use the paste polyester tints. I'll mix it well for the base color and then swirl in a little lighter brown or black with a tooth pick and leaving the swirls. The pour away. Rick's idea poses a question for me though. Assuming the inside of a cedar chest should be unfinished to keep the moths at bay, isn't finishing just the outside inviting warpage?John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Rick,
I don't know how many holes you have or what kind of look you are trying to achieve but you can patch those with a router and inlay kit. If you can match up the grain they can almost be invisible.
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