I’ve read various places that epoxy is a good way to fill larger splits and knots (for example Jeff Jewitt’s book on finishing). However, I believe that at least some epoxies turn cloudy with age unless covered with something like spar varnish containg a UV filter (which is not a finish I would use on the furniture work I do.)
Is turning cloudy with age a legitimate concern? Are there some epoxies that don’t have this property and would be recommended for furniture? Will an epoxy fill sand down and polish to a glassy surface in the normal surface preparation process, or is a specific polishing technique required? Any other tips on using epoxy? Any other fill materials I should consider for a figured walnut chest top?
Thanks,
Mark
Replies
Mark,
I don't know the answer to your question. I hope someone else provides it to you. I have used epoxy on small holes and sanded it down, and it looked good to me. My recommendation to you is to buy some epoxy, drill a hole in a piece of wood, fill it with the epoxy, let it dry. Sand it and finish it. and see how it looks. That shouldn't take long or cost much, and you will have the benefit of hands-on experience. Then you can post your results on Knots.
Have fun. Let me know what you come up with. I may run across that problem in the future.
Enjoy.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
Mark,
I've always used epoxy that's intended to fill large gaps, tinted quite a bit darker than the surrounding wood. With some repairs, the epoxy looks like other natural dark fertures of the wood (especially in tropical hardwoods) in other woods, it is obvious as a repair, but not at all objectionable.
I would never use epoxy light in color or clear enough that cloudiness could be a problem. I don't think the repair would look very good unless the epoxy is dark, and I believe that pigments are the best ways to block UV.
Epoxy, when fully cured polishes very well.
Rich
Thanks.
What would you use to tint the epoxy for use w/ black walnut? What specific epoxy do you use?
I've used epoxies as varied as WEST system products and "quick epoxy" from Ace Hardware.
I can't remember the pigments I've used as they are packed away. I'll try to locate them.
Rich
Epoxy does not become cloudy. Perhaps the batch you refer to was contaminated. It's exothermic, meaning it gives off heat as it cures and is therefore not prone to a lacquer -type cloudiness. It dries hard and clear, and makes an excellent gap filler especially when used in slab furniture.
Thanks for the reply.
Here's what prompted my inital post. I used to work on wooden boats and we used WEST System epoxy extensively. If not coated with UV filter varnish, epoxied surfaced exposed to sunlight for long periods (about a year) always turned cloudy. The WEST System User Manual states:
"Proper finishing techniques will not only add beauty to your efforts, but will also protect your work from ultraviolet light, which will break down epoxy over time. " . . . "Protection from sunlight is a primary consideration in the selection of a finish coating. Long term UV (ultraviolet) protection of the barrier coat depends on how well the finish coating itself resists UV and keeps its pigments, or its shield of UV filters on the surface of the epoxy barrier coat."
Maybe the amount of UV exposure that indoor furniture is subjected to is insignificant and that's why this doesn't seem to be an issue for those who have responded.
I use West System epoxy, and have for several years, but not on boatwork where as you suggest, spar urethane is needed to protect from UV degradation.
Most woodwork joints are naturally hidden so the choice of glue is up to the builder.
Here in the San Francisco Bay area there is a company called "Smith and Co." They make a number of epoxy products. The one I have used is there epoxy gel which is a very thick product almost like playdo. They have powederd pigments that you can add to color the product. They sell the epoxy in the Japan woodworkers catolog but not the colors. They also sell this product at boat supply places here as well as some paint stores. I am sure they have a website but I have not looked it up. Anyway the product works well for filling big voids in wood.
Troy
Mark,
This is not a specific answer to your cloudiness question but I'll throw it in for whoever might be interested. I have always had a complaint about the epoxy sold in the bubble packs, the kind using the twin plunger tubes; they are only $4-$5 each, but after one use the tubes are awkward to reseal using the tiny plastic supplied plugs. On the next attempted use, usually the tube ends are dried shut. I found an epoxy I had never noticed before at Lowes recently, LocTite brand 5 minute epoxy in two separate 4 oz (4oz each epoxy & hardener) squeeze bottles for about $14. I have used this several times and found the bottles easily resealable, and the epoxy works as well as any I have used. Gary
Mark, I use epoxy for a considerable amount of my gluing as well as filling. I don't think you'll have to worry about clouding in the epoxy unless the piece is directly next to a window evey day. But if you are still worried about it I would take a piece of your scrap stock.. put it on a bench sander to make some woodflour/sawdust... then mix it up in the epoxy untill it has a penut butter consistency, It will dry a little darker than the wood but not by much. I did the same thing to fill holes and gaps in a cedar strip canoe I built a few years ago and you can hardly tell where I filled now. Hope this helps
I use a two-part epoxy for both fixing flaws and for "inlay."
I find artist oils can be used to tint the epoxy to any color--only a very small bit of tint is needed. You can find a 20-30 color set (small tubes) from an artsy fartsy store like AC Moore for under $20, and have ample tints to last a long time.
Just be sure the epoxy is not old and will harden completely.
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