Replies

1. 
   JiminFla | Mar 31, 2010 09:53am | #1

   Mike,

   Your best bet to get a smooth surface is to use a commercial grain filler.  Oak has very open pores and you need to fill them in order to get the finish you're looking for.  Grain filler is available in both solvent based and water based formulations.  Try some on a piece of scrap before you put it on your finished piece.  Do a small section at a time because it dries quickly.  The filler will come with directions for use, but here's the short version:  Apply the filler to the wook and work it into the grain.  Then, using a squeegee or similar tool, wipe at 45 degrees to the grain so as remove most of what's on the surface without taking it out of the pores.  Then when it's almost dry, use a piece of burlap to remove what's left on the surface by rubbing across the grain.  Solvent based filler takes at least two days to completely dry, but water based filler sets up quicker.  Then gently sand away any of the filler that's left on the surface. 

   Jim

2. 
   gossamershavings | Mar 31, 2010 07:57pm | #2

   i dont mind the look of the pores, just want them also black. i am trying to match speakers that have oak laminate. it needs to be black but with a translucent finish....so the grain can be seen. i tried oilbased stain but was having the same problem. i  was even considering thinned black paint.....i would kind of like the texture of unfilled pores to be honest.......

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 31, 2010 10:15pm | #3

   Actually, thinned black paint would be a good choice tto match oak grained laminate..  It will shrink into the pores leaving them visible and looking "oak grained" but will get the entire surface black.  Use a top of the line oil based enamel, you can't thin waterborne paint, unless you have spray facilities.   At least I think this is the right look,  as I understand "laminate" I think of black plastic with the oak pores ",molded" in as the grain. 

1. 
   gossamershavings | Apr 01, 2010 01:46am | #4

   i kinda thought i would probably end up doing it.paint that is. i was thinking of clear coating it as well. maybe overkill, but since it it thinned.....would there be adhesion problems over an enamel. i worry anything too gloss will cause problems.....your thoughts.

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 01, 2010 11:51am | #5

   Water based dyes (which is really what you made) are difficult to get deep into the pores of oak.  Water exhibits a characteristic called surface tension which causes water to sort of seal to itself and it's container and not flow fully down to the bottom of  a small diameter container (the pore of the wood).  Oil based pigment stains work much better and don't have this problem.

   I have found that the best way to get a dark color on walnut is to first use the dye and then use an oil based pigment stain.  This process will evenly color the wood and still leave the "look and feel" of the grain figure.

4. 
   wisno | Apr 01, 2010 05:01pm | #6

   Agrre with Mike

   The bst way to get black in your pores and grain is by using filler.

   The finishing step is:

   1. Stain

   2. wash coat

   3. filler

   4. sealer

   5. pad stain

   6. top coat

   You can view

   more aout filler in my web blog article: wood filler in wood finish

   in my web blog: http://www.wisnofurniturefiishing.com

   wis

5. 
   wisno | Apr 01, 2010 05:03pm | #7

   Agree with Mike The bst way

   Agrre with Mike

   The best way to get black in your pores and grain is by using black filler.

   The finishing step is:

   1. Stain

   2. wash coat

   3. filler

   4. sealer

   5. pad stain

   6. top coat

   You can view

   more aout filler in my web blog article: wood filler in wood finish

   in my web blog: http://www.wisnofurniturefiishing.com

   wis

6. 
   PSeverin | Apr 02, 2010 06:45pm | #8

   Bark tea

   There was an article in Popular Woodworking about ebonizing wood.  It had to do with using a tea made of a bark that had high concentrations of tannin to supercharge the wood.  The tea was washed  on the wood  before hitting it with the iron vinegar mix.  Like any number of finishing instructions it seemed way to complicated for me, but the results were impressive.   The blacks were black and uniform.  

   I believe you could find the article on their web site.    I hope this doesn't break some rule about referencing another publication.

   Peter

1. 
   gossamershavings | Apr 04, 2010 01:50am | #9

   good tip...most of my test samples were pretty uniform, but a few pieces seemed low in acid as they did not turn more than grey...i had considered using a tannic acid wash, but it seemed like nasty stuff to me....might try the tea thanks for the advice