Does anybody have a home recipe for mahogany grain filler?
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Replies
I sometimes like to use the oldest one I know of in the book-- fine plaster of paris and dry water based powder paint, e.g., the Crayola brand, or other poweder colours compatible with water, suchas universal tinting colours (UTC's). Put a cupful or two of the plaster of paris in a pail, and add a teaspoonful or two of the dry paint. For mahogany you'll probably be looking at mixing in things like burnt sienna, or the umbers to get a colour to blend into the background, unless you want a contrast, in which case you could any colour you like, such as blue, or green. Mix it all together well with a stick, and adjust the colour to suit after doing a test fill.
To fill the grain, fold up a small square of cotton cloth, dip a corner into some water, dip the wet corner into the plaster mix and rub the stuff hard across the grain to fill the pores. You can dampen the cloth again to help keep the plaster workable. I tend to use an elliptical motion.
Do a small area, probably no more than about ten inches square. Then grab a square of hessian (burlap) or other coarse cloth and burnish off the excess across the grain, and lightly burnish after with the grain also to remove cross grain striations. One of those fine (Scotchbrite) abrasive pads can also be used gently with the grain too.
Let it dry, perhaps overnight, and very gently sand with something like 240 or 280 grit abrasive paper held in the fingers, avoiding cutting through to bare wood to remove the last of the cross grain striations. Continue with your polishing after sanding. I'm assuming you've already worked up a dyeing and/or staining routine, and creating a barrier between these stages and the grain filling using something like a thin wash coat of film polish. Slainte
Richard,
Thank you for the detailed info - this is very helpful. Just a couple of questions 1) Can I use a powdered aniline dye to mix with the plaster? 2) I have seen some articles where the powdered grain filler is first mixed with water to the consistency of tooth paste and then "trowled" onto the wood surface with a soft plastic applicator. Do you see any problems with this approach?
Cheers, Jeff
Jeff, I've never used dry powder aniline dye in the process. You'd have to experiment yourself with that using water based stuff, but maybe someone else has experience of it?
In your latter question, I suspect you are referring to liming rather than grain filling. This is a procedure where, if you don't use proprietary stuff out of a can, you mix up your own from unslaked lump lime in water. The sloppy mix produced is rubbed on across the grain of bare wood and burnished off when the paint is semi-dry. It's left to dry overnight, sanded, and polished. I've used ready mixed water based paint in a similar manner.
The effect is rather different to grain filling and is most often used on oaks and other 'rustic' timbers. I have a feeling the process as described by you wouldn't give you what you're after because substantial sanding is involved the next day which might cut through to bare wood if there's stain and polish underneath, but there'd be no harm in trying it out just to see. If you used plaster of paris in the mix instead of lump lime, you'd have to work extremely fast-- I don't think I'd attempt it, except on a very small area, ha, ha. Slainte.Website
Makes sense. I might experiment a bit as you have suggested but I will try it on some scrap first. Thanks again for your help.
Hi JRowe 007,
If you're wondering how to fill the grains in mahogony why not pick up the Aug issue of Finewoodworking. There's an Excellent article on that very topic in that issue. I think they use boiled linseed oil and rottenstone....something like that to make slurry that they just rub into the wood. Anyways you might want to check out that article.
Wanda
I use Benjamin Moore Wood Grain Filler on Mahogany. Use a spatula to force it well into the grain and use lots of it. Wipe across grain and with the grain. After drying use a scraper to smooth off the surface. I stain afterwards. Surface will be like a mirror.
Most grain fillers are fine grain clay particles suspended in a solvent.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Thanks for the reply - that is good to know.
Thanks Wanda, I'll check it out. I usually read FWW from cover to cover - must have missed that article.
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