Our dining room table is made of cherry, manufactured by Stickley in 1950. Over the years it showed evidence of having a shellac finish when alcohol or water was spilled on it. This was confirmed by the manufacturer. A few years ago, after having had these wine and water spots removed by various methods too many times, the finish was worn through in spots. I decided to spot finish the bare areas with orange shellac to match the original, and to then apply several coats of nitrocellulose lacquer (Deft). I had used this lacquer on other products very successfully for many years. To my dismay, while applying the first coat of lacquer, fish-eyes appeared, indicating the use of furniture polish containing silicones at some point. After several applications of fish-eye remover and numerous coats of lacquer, I had a not very good finish. Rather than the very smooth finish I usually had with this product, it was very uneven, almost like orange peel. I decided to give up and accept this mediocre finish. After some weeks passed, I applied paste wax.
Ever since that time, a film, almost like the days when my children smeared jelly on the table, has appeared. I have removed the film from time-to-time using fine steel wool and mineral spirits, but it always comes back.
My thought has been to clean the film off again, sand the table lightly with very fine sandpaper to try to even out the surface, apply a couple of coats of shellac, and follow this with a water based polyacrylic blend which I have used successfully in the past.
1) Does anybody have any idea what this film is which continues to develop? Is there a way to prevent it?
2) Does my plan to clean, shellac, and finish sound reasonable, or are there better ways to do this?
Thanks for your thoughts.
Bob
Replies
If you are going to refinish this table top I think you need to strip the old finish and then re-apply a clear finish.
Yes, that's an option, but in the process I would lose the 50 year old patina. There's gotta' be a way!
Thanks for the thought.
Bob - I believe the film is caused by the fisheye eliminator. Fisheye eliminator contains silicone. The silicone is migrating to the surface of the lacquer.
Gretchen's recommendation to remove the old finish and start fresh seems the best idea. If you remove the old finish properly, you will not lose any of the patina. The key in removing the finish, and not the patina, is to DO NO HARM to the wood surface. Before the finish was applied, the wood was leveled and sanded properly. The wood is still in this condition under the finish. If you don't do anything to change this, you can remove the old finish and apply a new finish without altering the surface of the wood - the patina and surface preparation will be 99% intact.
The key to removing the old finish, without altering the wood, is to avoid the use of scrapers that might scratch/gouge the wood, keep sanding to an absolute minimum, and don't use water anywhere in the process.
Use a stripper that will dissolve the lacquer and shellac - any paint remover will work. Use steel wool or scotchbrite and cotton rags in combination with the stripper to remove the old finish. I like to use a semi-paste stripper, lay on a thick coat, let it sit for 15-30 minutes, then wipe off the dissolved finish with steel wool or scotchbrite. Once the majority of the old finish has been removed, wash the wood repeatedly with lacquer thinner and cotton rags until no more residue is evident. Change rags as needed to make sure you are removing the residue, not spreading it around. I recommend lacquer thinner for the wash-down as the solvents in it are strong enough to dissolve any remaining finish AND the wax from the semi-paste stripper. Some folks recommend mineral spirits for the wash-down, but mineral spirits will only dissolve the wax from the stripper - not any residual finish that may be on the surface.
Once the wood is clean, let it dry overnight. Using 220 grit sandpaper, lighty sand the wood from end to end in long single strokes with the grain. This will remove the slight raised grain from the stripping amd cleaning process. Rotate the sand paper frequently to keep the abrasive fresh and sharp. This will return the crisp, clean look to the surface of the wood - removing the frayed ends from the very top of the wood.
Now seal in the silicone contamination with shellac. If you plan to use a poly or water-base finish, use DE-waxed shellac. Two coats of shellac, with a light 320 grit sanding between coats will seal the wood and establish a smooth foundation for the rest of your finish coats. If desired, you can apply coats of shellac, sanding each coat back, until you have completely filled the grain and pores of the wood for a glass smooth finish.
Paul
F'burg, VA
The key to removing the old finish, without altering the wood, is to avoid the use of scrapers that might scratch/gouge the wood, keep sanding to an absolute minimum, and don't use water anywhere in the process
Thank you Paul. That is how to do a proper refinishing job.
Bob -
I refinished our Ethan Allen native cherry breakfast table once. I sanded it down to bare wood, stained, then wiped on about 4 coats of poly and sprayed on the last coat. After 20 years, it's still looks great. Wiping on several coats of poly first will prevent fish eye. Of course, you can't put lacquer on top of poly.
I use thinned dewaxed shellac under Deft lacquer on my handles and knobs. The lacquer adheres fine with no fisheye. I was getting fisheye when using regular shellac. Also got fisheye when I put the Deft straight on to waxy woods (not using any shellac).
I would use dewaxed shellac if you do it again and still want to use lacquer. Personally, I'd use poly and first wipe on several thinned coats. Deft high gloss poly has been good for me. If you dont want the 'hard' appearance of poly, then 0000 steel wool and then power buff with lambs wool after waiting 3 or 4 days from last coat.
Have no idea about the film??
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
PlaneWood
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