Replies

1. 
   WillGeorge | Aug 29, 2005 02:25pm | #1

   Try Rottenstone and oil for satin, water for glossier

2. 
   waterhead | Aug 29, 2005 04:07pm | #2

   On the oak at least, you are likely getting some dust in the pores which, unless you have specifically grain filled the wood, are still likely to be open to a degree. Be careful using a burnishing compound for this reason. If you are confident the pores are fully closed, then try using an autobody polishing compound after your finest sanding.

   Chris

   
   

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   Edited 8/29/2005 9:08 am ET by waterhead37

1. 
   Kevin | Aug 29, 2005 06:03pm | #4

   I agree with Chris about the Oak pores thing. But, I wouldn't recommend polising before your final coat. Your last coat of poly needs something to bite into for adhesion. As long as your removing all of the sanding dust via a tack rag or whatever, then you shouldn't have to go higher than 600 grit.

   I've read that 320 grit is supposedly so fine that the naked eye can't detect it. But, I can see it in a finish. 600 should do the trick and still make for good adhesion.

3. 
   Dave | Aug 29, 2005 05:28pm | #3

   I have built a lot of cabinets with poly finish.  I usually apply 4 to 5 thin coats of poly with a final sand of 600 grit.  After wiping it down with a tack rag, I apply a final coat of wipe on poly (very thin coat, just enough to wet the surface) and walk away.  If you want, you can go over it one last time with 600 or 1200 grit hand sanded lightly, and paste wax. 

   Dang stuff looks wet when it's done.

4. 
   douglas2cats | Aug 29, 2005 06:30pm | #5

   Like some of the others, I've been using automotive rubbing compound to rub out the last coat too. This is usually after 5-7 coats of gloss wipe-on poly. It leaves a very smooth surface and knocks down the sheen on the poly so that it's more of a semi-gloss. It works great and is easy to use, but it wont cure dust/nibs/open pores in underlying coats. 

   Waddaya mean it wont fit through the door?

1. 
   jack | Aug 30, 2005 09:56am | #6

   Thanks, everyone. Looks like there are several options. I think I'll try them on some scrap and see which works best for me. I usually spray 3 coats of poly, sanding between the first and second and leaving the final one unsanded but this is a special piece for my daughter and I want a glassy smooth finish. The wood is highly figured wide boards I've had for over 20 years and you just don't find that kind of wood anymore, and the cabinet is one that will be handed down for generations (I hope).

5. 
   Pondfish | Aug 30, 2005 05:47pm | #7

   I use abralon pads up to 4000 for polishing clear finishes.  They work great and are available from Woodworker.com or homesteadfinishing.com

    

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
1. 
   jack | Aug 31, 2005 09:14am | #8

   Thanks for the reference. I'll look them up.

6. 
   ring | Sep 01, 2005 02:58am | #9

   Jack, I'm gonna give you a secret... I keep a piece of 1500 paper around that I've used for months, and I use it to go over the final coat. When it's fresh it is still too rough, but a very used piece is just perfect. No kidding. Every once in a while someone (I have workers in the shop) loses it and I have to start over again, but a 6 month old piece is wonderful, even though it looks like a worthless piece of trash. When forced to use a fresh one I put a few drops of Watco satin oil on a rag and run over everything. It makes the scratches go away.

   DR

1. 
   jack | Sep 01, 2005 10:26am | #10

   Wow, interesting comment. By chance I went into the shop this morning, looked at the cabinet, and thought "I don't want to spend hours polishing this thing". Went to the sandpaper drawer, found an old used piece of 1500 wet/dry, and gave it a try. Thought that if it didn't work the worst that would happen is I'd have to spend a half hour respraying the outside. I used a very light pressure and it worked like a champ. Glass smooth finish with no visible scratches. Thanks for confirming what I discovered - used, worn out paper is still useful and you can get a good looking finish without undue effort.

7. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Sep 02, 2005 06:41am | #11

   Hi Jack,

   I'll be posting pictures of a mahogany table I just finished..with poly on the horizontal surfaces.

   I sand to 320 until the last coat.  After it has cured I do 600, 1000, 1500 then 2000 wetordry paper.

   Even with the 2000 grit, one can see tiny scratches if you look carefully..even after waxing the surface.

   If I truly want all of the scratches out, I'll use 3M automotive rubbing compound on a lambswool pad on my Bosch ROS and then follow that with 3M swirl remover.  This completely gets the scratches out of poly...but you get a gloss finish...if that's what you want.

   When I want semi-gloss I'll either stop at the 2000 grit and wax the finish (living with the scratches) OR do a last thin coat of wiped-op semi-gloss poly.  If I'm lucky, and hold my mouth just right, the semi-gloss dries without needing any dust-burr sanding, etc.

   lp