I have been making some picture frames to hold mirrors and was having a lot of trouble getting the joints glued up so that all four joints fit exact and tight. I have corner clamps and tried those with poor results. Either the corner ended up misalligned or the two pieces of the frame ended up twisted. Then I tried my kreg pocket hole system. I have the jig I saw at a ww show that has the vice on the metal plate which is attached to 2 x4s on mdf. The man at the ww show said it was an assembly jig. This jig really makes putting together a project a breeze because you can clamp your pieces so tight and in all directions. I built a special work bench just for this jig to attach to. The first step is cutting accurate miters and routing accurate rabbits on all four parts of the frame. I just made one pocket hole for each corner added glue clamped both corner pieces on the plate and added a screw which pulls the joint really tight while the plate keeps both parts flat and evenly lined up. I then shot two 18 guage brads into the outside corner of the joint before unclamping it to keep it alligned while the glue sets. I did all four corners this way. I plan to add the mirror and cover the back with cardboard. The joints look as good on the back as they do on the front of the frame. The only sanding needed is to remove the glue that got squeezed out and spread out by the plate. These are the best mitered joints I’ve ever made! I finally found a system that works for me and saves time so I thought I would share it. BT
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Replies
A rubbed joint using hide glue would have made this a lot simpler. No special jigs, no special workbenches to hold the jig. All you need are the mitered frame pieces, a pretty flat workbench, and some hot hide glue.
You can tap in a few brads (or shoot them in) about ten minutes after you rub the joints if it makes you feel better.
No big deal.
I`m glad that you found a method that you are happy with. We all have our own method of doing things.
I cut all my picture frame miters on the table saw using a shopmade sled. One end is cut on the left half of the sled,and the other on the right. Since the guides are set up to a perfect right angle,if one cut is off slightly,the other will be off the other way and the total will always be 90 degrees
I cut my joints from the inside out.Any chipout will then be on the back side of the frame.
I use band clamps to hold the assembly until the glue dries.If the frame is large and heavy,heavy being a relative quantity,I use splines across the joint.Unlike Norm, I seldom use a nail or brad nailer in my construction. I will use screws on occasion.
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
Hello and thanks for the replies. I have never used hide glue before. Sounds like it sets up pretty fast. I have heard of rubbing joints together after adding glue and not having to clamp them and still get good results. I cut my miters on my Dewalt scms and can get great 90 degree corners with it. My trouble I was having until now was ending up with a frame that was caddywampas or out of square or else the corners would not come out right [my trouble was with the clamping process]. My new clamping jig holds everything tite and true while I secure the joints. BT
I`m glad that you have things going your way.
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
It's good you found what works for you. I use 4 Bessey K bodies and their "KP" blocks. It's easy to get a flat, square frame with these. John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
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