As I said in a previous post, I’m making some sliding doors with shop sawn veneers. Since they are sliding doors, I cannot have knobs or other handles protruding from the door surface. I need some sort of indentation. What solutions have you found for this issue? I’d like a slot of some sort that looks attractive and does not show off the plywood substrate underneath the walnut veneers.
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Replies
Inset a piece of walnut in the pull's position before you veneer the panel. Whe you cut your slot it will be into solid wood.
There are lots of recessed aka flush pulls made for this purpose. Here's a link to one... https://www.myknobs.com/omn9580503.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw3riIBhAwEiwAzD3TiU8HGjlaQYXClMWYlwTvHrfc563nw18nmYYl3EScGLfdfDlTwzZujRoC5eYQAvD_BwE
The sliding doors I have seen and made have a protruding knob along the edge. I do not see an advantage to sliding a door past the other.
You could rout a mortise and add a metal insert, they're for sale just about everywhere.
Are these walk through doors or cabinet doors? If the doors need to bypass then the pulls will need to be recessed. I would think that there is some space between the two doors. You could then have a small lip on the pulls. You could make them out of hardwood and mortise them in or you could purchase something already made and there are probably dozens if not hundreds of ready made pulls for that situation. Everything from something available at your Ace Hardware to some hand forged bronze finger pull made by a 110 year old Japanese last surviving craftsman that knows how who only uses metal that was produced before 1830. Now, if when the backside door is all the way open if is flush with the the forward door your going to need away to retreave it. Like what you might find on a pocket door.
Thanks for the info. Yes, these are bypass doors in a cabinet.
A common way to do this is to apply relatively wide edge-banding (3/4 to 1 inch) and rout a deep groove in that. Quite 'mid-century' and is a neat wood-only solution that requires minimal work.
Has the advantage of being easy to make symmetrical so the doors can sit either way and the cabinet will look the same.
Assuming the doors are reasonably thick test a dado grove by raising a dado into a test piece.As you are using veneer you can line the sides of this curved grove using a compass sized to the diameter of the dado blade.The bottom of this curved groove is a rectangular piece of veneer.If you cut and veneer the grove before doing the full face it will look a lot cleaner
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