Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 09, 2005 04:56pm | #1

   55 degrees is pretty cold for oil finishes.  Would take a long time to cure. 

   Frankly, I don't understand why you would start with a film finish--shellac-- which is very hard, and then coat it with a finish which is mostly oil, and which will dry to be very soft.  A thin "spit coat" of shellac might not hurt, but won't be of benefit on oak, though you might want to use it on "blotchy" woods such as cherry.  Oak does not need any pre-treatment to avoid "blotching", nor do the oil/varnish finishes need to be presealed over oak.  They are meant to penetrate the wood, not sit on top of another finish. 

   I like the look of an "oil finish" on oak, with an in-the-wood look.  To achieve that look, an oil/varnish mix is usually good, but what you proposed is very heavily oil, and without adding thinner, will be a fairly heavy consistancy. In addition it will be hard to wipe off excess.  If allowed to build on the surface it will be soft and possibly gummy and will take a VERY long time to cure at low temperatures. 

   I would use something like Watco Danish Oil or Minwax Antique Oil Finish both of which are thinned oil/varnish mixes.  If you want to mix your own, take equal parts of oil,thinner, and varnish.  These finishes can be applied directly on the oak.  The only caveat here is that you need to be able to keep wiping the surface in case oil bleeds out of the pores on the first coat or two.  And if you can warm up your space, including the wood and finishing materials, closer to 70 degrees for a few days you will be happier with the drying time. 

   I would not use an oil/finish on closed up case interiors because of lingering odor problems. 

   Pre-finishing is particularly desirable on panels in frame and panels, it presents problems on basic casegoods since you have to be sure there are no adjustments needed on joints after assembly that would require sanding or planing finished areas.  You also need to mask any areas to receive glue.  However, removing glue from finished surfaces is easy.  The glue will just wipe off with a wet rag.  With the pre-finished surface you don't need to worry about getting glue spread into the pores as might happen with damp wiping on bare wood. 

1. 
   artagain | Dec 13, 2005 03:04pm | #4

   Thanks Steve (and doug & pondfish).  Sounds like you've saved me some steps and possible aggrevation.  I had come across an article in FW where the author lightly padded shellac before the oil/varnish finish so I thought I'd try it. Given the temp in my shop though, it makes sense to allow a finish to penetrate easier and quicker.  I constructed the bottom case this past weekend.  I think I'll finish the interior before I put the back and doors on though.  Thanks again.

2. 
   DougF | Dec 09, 2005 05:22pm | #2

   I agree with Steve's advise regarding the shellac sealer before applying the oil finish.   I just finished a similar project and I used lacquer to pre-finish all of the interior portions of the case work and drawers.  I used a BLO/raw tung oil/varnish and turp mixture for the exterior surfaces.  Lacquered areas that are visible can be rubbed out to match the oil finish surfaces.

   For my oil mixtures I use a slightly more thinned mixture for the first two coats followed by successive coats in the 1:1:1:1 ratio.  The first coat is heavily applied and allowed to sit for 30 minutes and then the second coat is applied and immediately wiped down.  Make sure the first 2 coats are fully dried before applying additional coats.  For 55 degree temps I would allow a week to dry between coats.

3. 
   Pondfish | Dec 10, 2005 05:56pm | #3

   I agree pretty much with Steve - finish before assmebly, but keep the oil away from surfaces that will be glued.  Oil, then shellac is the way to go, and give the oil lots of time to cure.

   You can use oil on the interior to keep the look the same, but put down enough shellac on the interior to seal in the smell.  You can spray shellac on the interior post assembly to really ensure you seal in that stinky BLO smell.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005