I’m selling a rent house and want to change out the laminate counter tops with solid wood. My wife says they need to be light colored so I will likely get the birch unfinished version from Home Depot. They are in stock and reasonably priced.
My question concerns finishing the wood. One guy on YouTube recommends Maker Brand Simple Finish. This is a wood sealer with wax. It seems simple enough to apply and won’t break the bank. I know I should finish both sides.
I’ve never done this so would appreciate your knowledge and experience.
-What are the things I need to consider? (“Be sure to do this and avoid that”)
-What other good options are there?
Thanks as always.
John
Replies
I installed a butcher block counter for my son 2 years ago. He used Rubio Monocoat, which still looks brand new. I think it’s pricey, but that’s offset by its ease of application, very low VOCs, repair, and recoating when necessary. It comes in clear and many colors. https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/
I used mineral oil on our last house, it was an integrated butcher block in our countertops. Tried and tested but in our new house I used Osmo Top Oil and it's fantastic, offers more protection and does not need reapplication as often as mineral oil. the Monocoat is a similar product, though I've only used Osmo products.
Another experience-based vote for Osmo Top Oil, which is the toughest oil finish I've ever come across - and I've used many, many over the years. It's very resistant to any and all kitchen liquids, gunks and spills that the ladywife can derive.
If it's mechanically damaged, with knives, hot pans and the like, it repairs very easily with a sand-off and refinish, showing as a slightly brighter patch in lighter woods only, until the wood underneath darkens in a month or three to match the rest of the top.
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As to granite and other stone tops, especially those made of a conglomerate - these stain relatively easily and can be a real PITA to de-stain. In fact, some stains can't be removed. Plastic laminate is easily cut or dinged; and is similarly very difficult to repair.
The fact is that, as with so many other implements and furnishings, wood is the most easily repaired or refinished when damaged. In many cases, it's also resistant to the kinds of damage that easily occurs with other materials, even metal (which rusts or otherwise oxidises) and (certainly) most plastics.
Perhaps a carbon fibre worktop might be more resilient ...... :-)
Lataxe
Do yourself and the future owner a favor and install granite, quartz, or plastic laminate. Wood counter tops and any finish you put on it is going to be a long term maintenance problem. The plastic laminate we had for 30 years was always serviceable, maintenance free, and attractive. We finally replaced it with quartz just because we wanted something different.
I don't dispute the benefits of stone countertops. This is a builder grade rent house that I'm selling. Wood is a vast improvement over the faded and scratched laminate there now. It also is significantly less in cost and time. I'm guessing I will save $3000 and 3-4 weeks.
Thousands of people have wood countertops and love them. Why can't people just stick to the question at hand and try to answer the question instead of trying to convince the OP into changing their design choice to suit some random poster?
I was gonna tell him not to sell the house, but your point is a good one.
Because this is a forum which is defined as a place for free expression and exchange of ideas, advice, and opinions. Sometimes a poster finds alternatives very helpful. And sometimes not.
The OP used words like “want to change out the laminate with solid wood”,“reasonably priced” and “won’t break the bank” and he was told to choose laminate, granite, or quartz. Hmmm.
I used Waterlox 3 years ago. I put two coats on the bottom and 4 on the top. It is still in very good condition. Be sure you have good ventilation the fumes are strong.
I agree on Waterlox being a good option, and as Doug said, it smells for a while. That's the exact reason why my son used Monocoat, which is also foodsafe, unlike Waterlox and some other finishes. One other thing about Waterlox, I used it on a maple bed I made last year to keep the light color of maple. It worked fine, but the satin sheen I chose is glossier than other brands' satin I've used. They have a VOC compliant version too.
Butcher block counter tops may be used just that way. To prepare food. Eventual knife marks etc. You want a food grade finish. Something that the end user can easily maintain. Something like what you yourself suggested is the way I would go. I have used several different kinds and have made my own but I think Howard's products are pretty good. There's Howard's cutting board oil and Howard's Butcherblock Conditioner. I tend to use both. But as a footnote to that wood as a sink surround can get pretty damaged over time. Endgrain on a sink cutout needs to be well sealed and I would seal the bottom as well before installation. Personally, I would try and avoid using wood at the sink. With that said, I have a redwood surround on my tub. I finished it in Epiphanes varnish. Ten coats ,big job. After a few years and a " kenvinizing" incident involving my grandson and a metal spoon I redid it with Tonkinois. Both products gave great results but the Tonkinois builds faster and I was able to get done in 6 coats.
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Another vote for Osmo. It's tough stuff. And if you want to make sure it stays light colored you can use the "neutral" (3051) which tends not to darken or yellow the wood. A little goes a long way and it's spot repairable.
Never used Osmo although recently found it is carried locally and would like to try it. I have used and loved Waterlox on many projects over the years. Oldest is our kitchen island which includes a prep sink and gets absolutely beaten on with plates sliding across, water constantly splashed on it, and washed with various cleaners repeatedly! We always get comments on it's beauty by visitors. Every 2-3 years when it starts looking dull/scratched a bit, I give it a quick sand with 320 grit sandpaper, reapply a single coat of Waterlox and it is like having a new top!
Mineral oil will wash off, little by little, with daily cleaning and have to be recoated a few times a year with a bit of prep.
Instead, use Sutherland Welles Tung oil. Once it has dried it is food safe. I usually do a sealer coat (thinned 50%) and then 2 finish coats with a ScotchBrite pad (Green) sanding in between. I also like a quick buffing after 2 days drying. Great finish.
Frankie
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