Anyone know a good method for finishing a ring? I made it from maple (HD variety) and I’d like it to be either a dark amber or a reddish color (sort of like padauk).
I saw in another thread that BLO on maple will turn the wood amber, but I’m wondering how much. I’d like it to be dark amber. I’m also concerned about the person wearing the ring — is BLO safe to be worn against the skin for long periods? What about dyes, or poly — are they safe? And is poly waterproof?
I’ve been considering a dye and then a good sealer, but shellac’s out, since the ring would probably get at least a little wet somewhere along the way. I don’t expect any finish to be 100% waterproof, but in high humidty, on a warm hand, I don’t want the dye or stain or sealer to start rubbing off. Makes me think that an oil like BLO or tung is a good option, as long as it’s safe.
Any ideas?
Replies
I would have to suggest that you might need to consider a dye or stain to achieve the proper coloring. Make sure to experiment on scrap first. Better yet, use the appropriate color of wood instead.
As for the finish, I have made some rings and found the "best" finish for the purpose is Waterlox Original. However, I have not tried their marine version. Out of the finish types that I have tried, Waterlox (once properly/fully cured) will not show the scrapes/scuffs from normal wear as badly as most urethanes...very durable but still flexible. Secondly, with enough applied light coats, I have no reservations about wearing the rings while washing my hands. I don't however wear them in the shower although I believe they will do fine. Lastly, they can easily be "touched up" by properly cleaning the surface, possibly sanding, and applying a new coat...back to new.
Just my experience.
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
Thanks for the reply. I'll take a look at Waterlox Original. I'm thinking of making another ring, and I actually do have some padauk, so maybe I'll start with the right color of wood next time.
Slightly off topic, but how did you make your rings? I simply cut a hole in 1/4 maple with a Forstner bit and then cut a more-or-less round circle around the hole. Then I went at it with a small rasp and sand paper. I got the ring darn close to perfectly round and symmetrical, but I have to imagine there's a method that spins the ring and allows for perfectly symmetrical shaping. I don't own a lathe, and I don't even know if you can use one to make rings. Any advice? This was my first attempt at ring making.
It's always fun to try different things. I enjoy taking a break from bigger projects and making a few rings once in a while.As far as my process, it's not too far off from what you already do. I don't own a lathe either so I also endure a great deal of fine sanding. I'm sure a mini-lathe could be used, at least partially. As for me, I basically cut it out and sand the inside first to the proper size for the intended wearer. A collection of different ring sizes could come in handy. I got a cheap plastic set from http://www.artistreewoodart.com/After the inside is correct, I use the belt sander and a quick jig to rough sand the outside. Then comes hand sanding to perfection.The one thing that you did not mention that I found to be critical was to make the ring with opposing grain from multiple pieces of wood. In other words, make a blank of 2 or 3 sheets of wood...thickness is up to you...glued together with the grain oriented perpendicular to the adjacent piece (similar to plywood). The main reason being for strength b/c otherwise the ring can easily be snapped parallel w/ the grain. This also can add a great deal to appearance if using multiple wood types.Beyond the plywood approach, one can also cut thin strips w/ the grain and bend the wood into a circle, which would likely lead to the greatest strength. However, I have not had the time to experiment w/ this method. Please let me know if you try it.
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
Thanks for the tip about layering the wood. Not only would it make the ring very strong, but I can imagine some gorgeous combinations -- just with padauk and maple! I'm going to give that a try very soon.
Thanks a lot for your help.
padauk for a ring..I'd watch out using ANY wood for a ring.. Just me and a thought..
Is the receiver allergic to anything?Stick with Gold or Silver if so.. I know from experience..
VINCE, Not having a lathe (at times) didn't stop me from turning circular objects such as you create. I use various arbors in an electric drill and files, rasps and sand paper to shape the objects. Save those cut outs when using holesaws on wood (Also brass & aluminum)They come in handy to mount circular workpieces to the arbors.
Other handy tools are the assortment of small sanding drums with expandable rubber arbors made to fit electric drills or drill presses.
These are imported and very affordable.
As for a finish, rather than stain or lacquer, buff them while spinning with wax based buffing compound. Beads,bracelets,rings,bangles, ear rings etc etc can make fine gifts using exotic wood.
Steinmetz.
Edited 2/3/2006 3:04 pm ET by Steinmetz
Thanks for the advice Steinmetz. I did look briefly at my drill as a possibility for a sort of mini-lathe/shaper/sander, and I'm going to pursue that investigation. The high-speed buffing looks especially interesting, and I'd like to give that a try.
WillGeorge, your cautionary note is well-sounded. In fact, my original post asked specifically about safe finishes for objects being worn against the skin. I know about padauk being an irritant, and although I figure it would look nice layered with maple in a wooden ring, it's maybe not the best choice, unless the ring is very well sealed.
The Original Waterlox Sealer/Finish is supposed to be entirely non-toxic when dry, so it's probably a good sealer for rings. In any case, I briefly searched the Web and found a number of companies that produce wooden rings. Some of the rings are gorgeous. Not surprisingly, however, those companies weren't giving away any trade secrets.
I've never made a wooden ring. Some bowl turners, that make those large thin vessels, impregnate the piece with epoxy for strength. Another possibility is to saturate the ring with super glue. You may be able to add dye to either.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Just an offhand thought, what about using a hole drill to cut the outer circle and a starter hole in the center, then use a jorgensen style wood clamp to hold it and then clamp that to drill press table and drill out the center with the forstner bit. Think that might work?
Thanks for the tip, hammer 1. Ricks503, I find that the actual cutting isn't that difficult. No matter what method you employ, however, you're left with more wood than you want and you have to remove it in such a way that leaves the ring perfectly round and symmetrical, with the desired round-over. This is the hard part. If you can turn the ring once the cutting is over, it becomes a lot easier. One minute of turning while you apply sandpaper will take the outside of the ring to its required size.
As others have pointed out, sanding the inside of the ring can be accomplished with small sanding attachments for drills.
I'm sure there must be some special ring-turning gizmo that doesn't require a lathe. In any case, I'm still investigating the advice I've received throughout this thread.
Thanks.
a tapered dowel, with a metal rod in the base and put into the chuck of a drill press maybe?1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
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