Replies

1. 
   IanC | Jan 11, 2004 03:09am | #1

   I'd roll on a semi-gloss polyurethane floor finish on the plywood.  It would build much quicker than an oil and I think provide a surface that is easier to sweep.  Waterlox is great stuff but at about 17.00 a qt., pretty pricey for a shop floor. 

   I painted my floor with light gray semi gloss floor enamel.  Not very pretty but it sweeps well and I think increases the light level. 

2. 
   jazzdogg | Jan 11, 2004 03:57am | #2

   Donshop,

   I agree with Ian's comments, and would mix in a non-skid additive, if not for the entire floor, then at least in areas likely to get wet or slippery when dusted with sawdust. The finishing area, sharpening station, and areas adjacent to doorways all seem like viable locations for a non-skid floor.

   Please post some shots of your shop when it's finished!

   Paul

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
1. 
   jackplane | Jan 12, 2004 11:17pm | #3

   What Ian and Paul said are right. The oil finishes you mention offer little protection, and will only darken over time.Since this is a floor and not a piece of furniture, I'd go with polyurethane;you can sprinkle sand in it as you go,around the workstations for better grip.

3. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jan 13, 2004 12:20am | #4

   Don,

   All of the above would work fine - I'd look to a commercial floor finish - something fairly tough as you'll be giving it a workout.

   I don't know where you are, but one of the best floor finishes for a workshop is conveyor belting - I used to work in the mining industry and some guys used scrapped 5' wide by 1/2" thick conveyor belt.  Price was right and no worries with dropped tools.

   Doesn't meet the natural wood appearance criteria of your request, but.

   Cheers,

   eddie

4. 
   fdampier5 | Jan 13, 2004 01:01am | #5

   Think about it,

     you will drop stuff and move stuff around plus I'm certain that stuff will get split.. why not leave it raw wood?  it's not slippery.  it won't peel or crack or fade or chip and skuff marks will disappear over time.. plus everytool that you drop won't leave a noticable nick or bare spot.. A light sanding will quickly restore the orignal finish..  frequent sweepings will give it a lovely patina that is diserable for historical perspective..

     Years later you can look back and remember the spill from the rocking horse you made for your grandaughter, or that can of varnish that split it's contents as it rolled under the workbench..

        One final arguement.. the cost both in time and money 

     I promise you that no finish will go on as trouble free or as quickly as no finish will..  plus it is really hard to beat the price of free that no finish costs..

     spend your time makin' stuff instead..