Replies

1. 
   ProWoodworker | Mar 24, 2001 08:16pm | #1

   *
   I am almost positive that the bench will arrive with a satin lacquer finish already applied.

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Mar 25, 2001 09:42am | #2

   *I've worked with a few Ulmia benches over the years, and I hate to disagree with you Pro, but all the new ones I've received have been supplied bare. I don't think there is a 'best' finish as such, but I've been happy with applying two or three coats of boiled linseed oil refreshed every 6- 12 months or so with another coat after scraping off old glue and so on. It's not the toughest finish in the world, but it's easily cleaned up and re-coated. However, just recently I took an urge to flatten the top of one of my Ulmia's with a No. 7 jointer plane, and I followed this procedure with a coat of boiled linseed oil top and bottom side; then a few days later I applied a heavy coat of alkyd gloss varnish that I had going to waste skinning off in a can. It seems to work fine, especially since the initial gloss got knocked off. Some months (or maybe years) from now I'll probably roughly scrape off the gunge again and throw another coat of varnish on. Sliante.

1. 
   Rich_Reich | Mar 25, 2001 01:20pm | #3

   *In a previous discussion I've been told to be careful to not applying a finish that makes the surface too slippery. That would support either avoiding high gloss coatings or killing the gloss (with sandpaper?) on a high gloss coating.

1. 
   ProWoodworker | Mar 25, 2001 01:49pm | #4

   *If not already finished, I'd use a Danish oil or penetrating oil product as has already been suggested. I personally wouldn't particularly care for a film forming finish on a workbench top. My disclaimer though is that my bench top is three layers of MDF banded in clear Pine, so I may have no room to offer advice.Most likely a simple matter of taste. However, I can see where a glossy, rubbed out (with toothpaste? - couldn't resist) varnish would be slippery.