Replies

1. 
   ted | Sep 09, 2005 03:38am | #1

   I've made a number of wooden handplanes and have never used a finish on the sole. I would think you wouldn't want to put epoxy on the bottom because it would seem like it may actually act as an inhibitor to allowing the sole to slide smoothly across the surface. as far as the body goes I have always just maintained the surfaces with wax.

1. 
   Roderick | Sep 09, 2005 03:43am | #2

   Do you use a paste wax?  I had one guy tell me to use an oil like teak or tung oil.  Of course that begs the question: did he mean pure oil or an oil-varnish combination product marketed as "teak oil"?  It's all quite confusing.

   Edited 9/8/2005 8:48 pm ET by Roderick

1. 
   ted | Sep 09, 2005 04:24pm | #3

   I usually use Claphams Beeswax (paste). To be honest I try to keep up now and then and reapply but as you know little things like that kind of slip by the way side. Nonetheless the planes work fine. I think the only reason I'd put a finish is for appearances. My planes are work tools and I leave it as that.

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 09, 2005 07:22pm | #8

   Beeswax (paste)...I AGREE.. not to expensive... I only have one BIG?LONG wooden plane ..
   I do not put anything on it except the 'soul'..I have several wooden bows I have made.. Beeswax (paste) on the wood and strings..Beeswax is like the perfect wife... You just have to renew her every once-in-awhile...

2. 
   ted | Sep 09, 2005 04:37pm | #5

   One more thing. If you get the urge to make more handplanes (they can be addicting) you might want to check out David Finck's Book, "Making & Mastering Wood Planes" He's written the book (no pun intended) on the subject and it is really a great resource.

1. 
   Rich14 | Sep 09, 2005 06:01pm | #7

   Ted, and all,

   Finck's book is a great resource. But some find his obsessive attention to detail, having nothing to do with plane-making itself, almost suffocating. Being instructed how to sharpen and use a pencil, for instance, or how to hold and use sand paper, becomes tiring. The book becomes quite tedious for these reasons. He is absolutely correct on every point he makes, mind you. It seems he had to cram all his craftsmanship into this one book.

   Finck doesn't finish his planes.

   Planes I make for myself I never finish. Those I make as gifts, combinations of various tropical hardwoods, I used to finish with oil/varnish. Now they get a wiping of Boiled Linseed Oil to develop a little color and grain, then several coats of lacquer which I hand rub, up through 400, 600, 4-0 steel wool, finishing with automotive polishing compound. I never finish the soles (lignum vitae). The gift planes hardly ever get used. They wind up as display objects on bookcases, desks, mantles and such, and that's fine with me.

   Rich

1. 
   ted | Sep 09, 2005 11:14pm | #9

   Yes his book may get tedious but remeber he is speaking to a broad audience. Beginners to more advanced. You or I may find his attention to detail cumbersome but I can understand things from his end of the spectrum and the publishers. I used to work in the "how to" publishing business and it often got frustrating because I felt we constantly had to "dumb things down" to the lowest common denominator so that our beginner readers could participate more fully. It'd be easy enough to make a magazine or book for all us experts but the problem is there is not enough of us that would to sell enough books to and make it worth the publishers investment

2. 
   Rich14 | Sep 10, 2005 01:46am | #12

   Ted,

   Not arguing the point. But Finck goes way beyond assuring that novices be shown all the steps. The book is like a Web forum thread lost in side bars. His obsessive descriptions of all manner of general woodworking, drafting, miscellaneous techniques, overwhelms the stated topic, making and using hand planes.

3. 
   5418 | Oct 11, 2005 05:43am | #19

   I just saw this resurrected post. I quite agree with your point on David Finck's book. Good information from an obviously very competent author for sure but I got lost in the sidebar overflow and the minute details on everything. Somehow I felt the instructions were also somewhat rigid. I sort of looked through it a few times and its been on the bookshelf. My favorite part was the plane gallery with different sizes and wood species. I also learned to sharpen scrapers from this book, unexpectedly enough. I find David Welter's old article in FWW (included in a collection recently released in book format) captures the essential info in just a few pages. Also a lot more fun to read. That's the one on my bench when making my first plane.By the way, I haven't finished my wooden planes, but will try some kind of light oil rub after reading the posts here. I probably wouldn't use film finishes though for fear of warping due to unbalanced moisture transfer from the more heavily used sole (and the occasional flattening).

4. 
   Rich14 | Oct 11, 2005 07:00pm | #20

   Yeah,

   Plane-making is actually very easy and readily-available, high-quality irons just make them that more likely to perform extremely well, even for the first plane a person ever makes.

   Like most things, there are many ways to do the job. His book implies "one true method." But that's my take, others may completely disagree.

   At any rate, the book is a great resource, and if that was his intention, he hit a home run.

   Rich

2. 
   Roderick | Sep 10, 2005 03:54am | #13

   thanks for the info.  I was reading Garret Hack's book "Handplanes" and in it he suggests using a combo of beeswax and boiled linseed oil on plane totes (metal stanley planes)  I have some of the stuff mixed up, maybe I should try it?  I don't have any paste beeswax, so I mixed this stuff up by melting a block of beeswax into the oil.  I have found making the plane a lot of fun, and I think I will put the book you suggest on my wishlist at amazon.  Thanks again for the tips.

2. 
   ted | Sep 09, 2005 04:32pm | #4

   Another reason you wouldn't want to put finish on the bottom is because it IS a wood handplane. Being wood as we all know it moves. Don't be surprised if you find yourself having to flatten the sole from time to time. Applying any finish to the sole would just muck things up when the time comes to sand the sole flat.

3. 
   jackplane | Sep 09, 2005 05:53pm | #6

   Wax.

    

4. 
   philip | Sep 10, 2005 12:58am | #10

   Rod, I am intigued-a compass plane made of wood? How does the soul flex-or is it wood with steel?
   As for the finishing I would like to apply one or two shots of Zinsser shellac seal then wax-nothing on the soul except candle wax for smooth operation. (This Zinsser stuff is finding its way onto everything I make these days-especially when spraying catalysed finishes).
   I am also always asking for pictures of things-are you in a position to post a picture of your plane?

   Philip Marcou
1. 
   Roderick | Sep 10, 2005 03:59am | #14

   The compass plane is a copy of one made by crown plane company (crownplane.com) so you can see an example there.  The sole is curved fore to aft and side to side, and is not adjustable.  It is designed for smoothing the cuts from an adze and scorp when saddling (hollowing out) a windsor chair seat.  I took a class at the windsor institute this summer and am tooling up to make some chairs at home.  I thought the plane would be an interesting challenge.  It was, althought it only saved me 20 bucks to make it myself.  I bought some a2 tool steel in an annealed state from mcmaster carr, ground it to shape, and then had it heat treated locally.  Fun project.

1. 
   philip | Sep 10, 2005 04:41am | #15

   Thanks Rod,
   I would like to see a pic of the plane, but this computer says the address you gave is invalid....Philip Marcou

1. 
   Roderick | Sep 10, 2005 05:30am | #16

   the address is http://www.crownplane.com  did you type in the www?  I just went there myself.  This guy sells some really nice stuff, and I think pretty reasonable for what it is.

1. 
   philip | Sep 10, 2005 05:47am | #17

   Thanks Rod-I have just read the site-what wonderful planes. I agree-looks like tremendous value.
   I am frantic with the need to make some cash here so I can order one or two treasures from the good makers...(well I also need some cash for food, but I may do without one to get some of the other.)Philip Marcou

5. 
   GHR | Sep 10, 2005 01:38am | #11

   I have some expensive wax from woodcraft. I don't use it on furniture so ...

   A small amount on a plane sole and the blade and like a hot knife through butter.

6. 
   ak | Oct 10, 2005 07:06pm | #18

   if you do apply an epoxy based finish on the sole you risk scratching the finish and cutting right through it in some instances. The aggressive planing action can damage a hard finish like that. I use a thinned varnish mixture an all my planes, than coat with wax on the sole. That would be your best option or just straight wax. Keep building planes and you will find a rewarding experience in using tools you built yourself to fit your individual needs.

7. 
   PlaneWood | Oct 12, 2005 06:21am | #21

   When I restore wood base transitional planes I finish them with two coats of thinned dewaxed shellac then two coats of trewax brand clear paste wax.  I do not finish or wax the bottoms.

   http://pages.sbcglobal.net/mike_in_katy/PlaneWood/DSCN1399a.JPG

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   MichaelPB | Oct 13, 2005 12:46am | #22

   Mike,

   I just found the crate I have been piling the old planes I found and I want to start using them.  Most are ratty and I will have to make handles and such.  I was thinking about color, I know the finish you put on is traditional, but does it serve any purpose?  I was thinking of painting them deep red or something different.

1. 
   PlaneWood | Oct 13, 2005 02:45am | #23

   Any way to seal the top and sides.  What ever turns your crank!  Keep it away from the bottom so the finish won't transfer to the surface being worked.  Personally I think multi colored planes might be a welcome break from tradition!   Why not - we need more people that think out of the box!   Oh yeah, if you use the side of the planes for shooting, then the finish might get scuffed up.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood