Replies

1. 
   Gretchen | Jul 24, 2003 05:29am | #1

   On Wood Magazine's site Jim Kull has done extensive testing of using the oil tint BASE used for mixing exterior paint as an excellent finish for exterior wood. The base is clear, has all the UV inhibitors, etc.  before tints are added.   You should use the base that is used for the darkest paint mixes.  One example cited is of a door exposed to direct sunlight for 3 years being in good condition.

   All that said, I tried to go to HD this week to purchase this for a friend who wants to test it on his mountain log cabin.  First of all, being a woman, I didn't know what I wanted (so the clerks thought).  Each time I asked where I might find this base on the shelf  they said they would be glad to mix it for me.  Finally it turned out they only had the oil base in gallons.  They did have one quart that the clerk assured me could be mixed to a lighter shade of white.

   Gretchen
2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 24, 2003 06:53am | #2

   Consumer reports has been testing exterior finishes for a number of years. Some do much better than others. You can see the test results at this link - Consumer Reports.

   Jim Kull did a one year test with a few different finishes and he reported the paint base did the best of the products he tested.

   All clear finishes will fail in a year or two if you don't sand them back and recoat them. The UV inhibitors are "sacrificial," they are used up as they do their job. If you allow the finish to fail, you'll end up with a door like your neighbors. The spar varnishes you'll find at your local hardware are not the best choice for long term protection.

   Akzo Nobel, makers of Sikkens Exterior Finishes makes some of the best exterior finishes on the market (including log cabin finishes).

   Paul

1. 
   corners | Jul 24, 2003 07:11am | #3

   Actually, I'm not that worried about the life of the finish in regards to the elements, the problem that ruined the door was the effect of the varnish essentially "gluing" the floating panels to the rails and styles so that when the panels shrunk in cold weather they split.  I'm more interested in a finish that will allow the floating panels to move as they expand and contract so that they won't split. Durability of the finish would be an added bonus.

2. 
   Gretchen | Jul 24, 2003 08:05pm | #4

   Jim Kull did a one year test with a few different finishes and he reported the paint base did the best of the products he tested.

   In a recent post another knowledgeable person (Mickley) said he had been made aware of Jim's advice "a number of years ago" and had finished a door with southwestern exposure about 3 years ago with no problems in the finish failing. That was the post I was quoting.

   I have been interested in this for my son's FIL who has a cabin in the Colorado mountains.  I had sent him several posts about this which he showed to his log cabin restoration company rep.  He was very interested in it also thinking it might be very similar to the product they use for log cabin restoration.  He was going to check it out.  Just for information.  There always seems to be something to be learned.

   Gretchen

   Edited 7/24/2003 1:09:13 PM ET by GRETCHEN50

3. 
   RoyinMD | Jul 25, 2003 07:47pm | #5

   I'm very unskilled in exterior finishes other than paint and metal clading. Or slapping a coat of stain on the deck.

   If the door is not in too bad a shape you may just want to try something as simple as Orange Glo Wood Cleaner and Wax. Not long lasting but sure is cheap, fast and worth a shot.

   I just bought Minwax (exterior) Spar for my shop side door replacement. A freebee walnut faced solid core office door. My first shot at a real exterior finish. No raised panels to deal with but plenty of afternoon sun. I need an overhang.

   Enjoy, Roy