Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 11, 2006 04:25am | #1

   Whether to use a grain filler is purely an esthetic choice, though with a film finish I think open pored woods look best with filler.  Filled pores is the more formal look. 

   The covered north exposure is a good thing, but I would still use a quality spar varnish instead of a polyurethane varnish.  A good marine varnish--Epifanes Gloss, or Interlux Schooner or Pettit Captain's.   West Marine or the equivalent is the source for these.  You won't find them in the Big Box's, and in only a few, close to harbor, paint stores. 

1. 
   Troy | Nov 11, 2006 07:04am | #2

   Thanks for your reply I live in near several marine supply places. With the spar varnishes you mentioned could you use a brush? And for a grain filler I was thinking of one of the Belens oil based grain filers. ThanksTroy

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 11, 2006 02:15pm | #3

   All of these top spar varnishes are designed to be brushed.  Like all varnish these days they will need a little thinning--in the 10% range. 

   The Behlen filler is a good product.  I would apply it over a very thin coat of the varnish (about one part varnish to two parts thinner).  This wash coat will have almost exactly the effect that a first coat of Watco would have. 

   I prefer to buy the "natural color" and tint it myself using artists oil paint or japan colors but you can buy the it already tinted if you want.  (Burnt umber, or van Dyke brown, with a little burnt sienna are pigments to experiment with.)  The Behlen's will need a lot of thinning.  I have used it thinned to the consistency of heavy cream and with it wiped off (cross grain) with rough burlap.  I would allow a week between the application of the the filler and the varnishing just to be sure it has been well cured. 

1. 
   Troy | Nov 11, 2006 07:59pm | #4

   Thank you very much for the tips I did not think about thinning the filler.Troy

1. 
   peter28 | Nov 13, 2006 05:08am | #5

   Troy

   Concerning tinting your own filler;

   I've used japans in filler on exterior applications and had them fade . The mistake I made was to use too little of the color in the mixture. When using japans in full strength , like when painting an object, they're fine There are also colorants such as Mixol that are very light fast. They just need to be mixed with a power tool of some sort to blend properly. The fact that your door is facing North also works in your favor.

   If you do fill it, be sure and do it in sections at a time. Be sure and remove ALL excess from the surface or you will end up with ugly grey patches.Besides using burlap for the surface removal, I like to use a white scotch pad. I used to use burlap but found these more efficient for my purposes.

   Don't try and rush this phase. Take your time and you'll have a stunning door

   Peter

     

2. 
   Troy | Nov 13, 2006 06:04am | #6

   Many thanks for your reply. I have used the Belens grain filler in the past but my local dealer does not have the pre colored type any more only the "natural" so I will try it with the japan colors.ThanksTroy

2. 
   VeriestTyro | Nov 13, 2006 10:52pm | #7

   Penofin.

3. 
   cowtown | Nov 14, 2006 12:11pm | #8

   air conditioned inside?

   most solid door mfgrs won't warrent their doors unless they are finished on all sides-including top and bottom.......

   the temp and moisture variance encountered in entry doors is one of the reasons these suckers cost so much from the supplier. keep that differential in mind when yer finishing it.

   Eric in Calgary

1. 
   Troy | Nov 14, 2006 07:13pm | #9

   I am in the San Francisco area so no AC but I will finish all four sides. ThanksTroy

1. 
   Rich14 | Nov 14, 2006 08:03pm | #10

   All 6 sides.

   Rich

1. 
   Troy | Nov 14, 2006 08:20pm | #11

   Thats right, cant forget the top and bottom.Thanks