Finish for ash and grain on panels
Building a Shaker-like chest 27″ high with 10″ turned legs. Frame and panel , front and back 17″ by 35 3/4′ and sides 17″ by 16 7/8″ ( outside diameters). Two questions: (1) Finish. The frames and turned legs are ash with color varation ( brown to blond) and strong grain lines ( most apparent on the turned legs). Want a redish-brown finish to hide the color varations and to fill and hide the grain. Any Suggestions? (2) Panels . Will use Birch plywood for panels. How should the grain run? Assume horizontal for the long front and back panels. What about the sides?
Thanks
Replies
Regarding the grain direction of the panels: I assume that your birch ply is a furniture quality ply and the A side has what appears to edge-joined boards (veneer) running vertically. The B or C side has rotary planed veneer that looks to be from a single "board". Traditionally, the cabinet maker would join his solid boards to make vertical panels. There was also a practical reason for this since solid wood cabinetry is usually constructed so the wood movement is in a consistent direction: front to back.
Regarding the finish, I would suggest that you get a good book on finishing and consider a glazed and/or toned finish that will minimize the grain. You could also consider bleaching all of the wood then applying your finish, again depending on how much grain you want to expose. You might also consider a milk paint finish that was also traditional with this style of furniture. Regardless, use scrap to test your options before you commit. I would post this question in the Skills/Techniques forum for more suggestions.
I recently finished a craftsman style bookcase for one of my daughters and built it out of ash. Frame and panel construction mostly, with adjustable shelves. All of the solid stock was of ash and I veneered the panels with ash over 1/4" MDF trying to reduce the overall weight (she's in an upstairs apartment at college and I new I would be the one climbing the stairs with the bookcase). That didn't help much.
To help with finishing, I used a product from Pro Finisher called Wood Filler for Floors. It's used to fill open grain in oak flooring and they make a red oak and a white oak version. Naturally, I used the white oak product. I put it on all of the pieces with a wide three inch plastic putty knife. It's usually applied with a trowel on floors after their down. It dries for sanding in about 20 minutes depending on how thick you apply it. After trial and error, I begin to apply it with broad strokes and very firm pressure, making the filler very thin. This made the cure time quicker and most of all, reduced the amount of sanding needed. It will produce a glass smooth finish that I oiled with two coats of waterlox sealer. In hind site, that turned out to be a little more golden than I wanted. I stained the panels before oiling them, with the hope that the panels would be much darker than the frames. Unfortunately, she went back to school after Christmas on a Thursday wanting me to come with her and bring the bookcases. I was able to deliver the following Tuesday so, as you can see, I didn't have time to correct the tinting of the panels like I wanted if she hadn't been rushing me!!!!
Anyway, hope this helps. Oh, the Pro Finisher was purchased at Home Depot.
Rusty
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