Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 18, 2010 02:12pm | #1

   Sorry you have gone so long without an answer.  I've been "out of pocket" pretty much for a while. 

   You've outlined the possibilities, though for an oil finish--that won't build a film--I definately wouldn't use a pure oil, but a mix of oil and varnish, either made yourself with equal parts of an oil based varnish, boiled linseed oil, and thinner.  About three coats will do, being sure to apply, let penetrate a few minutes, and then thoroughly wipe the surface dry,  This will give a nice surface, though one that can be marked--repair of scratches is easy,  just a fresh application will blend in most.  With plywood you won't be able to sand out deeper scratches. 

   A good film specialty floor finish will resist scratches, though it too can be scratched.  Repair of such scratches is difficult.  Probably the toughest floor finishes now are the two part waterbornes such as Bona-Kemi Traffic.  You need to use the particular Bona Kemi sealer if you want to give the wood the "wet" color look you would get with an oil based finish on hardwood. 

   Your friend should remember that the carpet will get matted from the pressure of the mat.  That's part of the reason why commercial plastic chair mats have molded on ridges or spikes on the bottom to hold the mat up a bit so the carpet isn't fully mashed.  I don't know how effective those are or whether it is really a benefit.  I'd sure like the looks of wood much better than the plastic alternatives.  .    

1. 
   FrankDrackman | Apr 18, 2010 03:36pm | #2

   Thanks, when I didn't get any replies I went ahead and used my "normal" finish which is an oil, varnish, and thinner blend.  He started using it yesterday and I will check in with him over time to see how it works out.

   I am also concerned about his chair rolling off the edge of 3/4" plywood vs. a thin sheet of plastic.