Replies

1. 
   john_c2 | Sep 25, 2019 05:34pm | #1

   For me, cherry is self-staining. I use one or two coats of shellac, then a couple if coats of waterborne poly. Cherry gets darker all by itself when exposed to light.

2. 
   richeytgr | Sep 25, 2019 10:04pm | #2

   If you want it dark quickly, spray it with a lye solution. Be careful and use protective gear. You'll find a formula on the web.

1. FWW Editor
   ben_strano | Sep 26, 2019 08:52am | #3

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/2018/11/29/dark-rich-cherry-finish-with-household-products

3. 
   bilyo | Sep 26, 2019 02:31pm | #4

   I have built a number of pieces from cherry over the last several years. The technique I have developed is to first put on a coat of danish oil. This shows me how the piece will look with only a clear oil based finish. As you know, cherry varies quite a bit in color from tree to tree and board to board within a tree. The danish oil highlights the differences and then I can make a choice to either leave it alone to self darken or help it along with some stain. I frequently apply some gel stain on top of the danish oil (letting the oil dry for about 24 hours) to blend and even out the colors. Then after another 24 hours I apply my finish coats. Over time, it has worked out pretty well. Of course, some areas still self darken more than others, I have found this to be mostly acceptable. Usually, the lighter areas won't self darken as much. So, the stain evens it out in the end.

4. 
   rdubya | Oct 07, 2019 01:57pm | #5

   My finish for cherry provides a natural light/ medium color that darkens nicely over time. It is easy and almost foolproof. It will help with bloching on occasion. It may look complicated but it is very simple.
   Here’s the recipe:
   Plane flat and card scrap figured areas ( figured areas seem to produce the most bloching). Sand to 320 grit (anything more does not work as well).

   Soak (yes- I get it very wet) well with water to raise the grain and expose any missed glue and let dry 3-4 hours or preferably overnight.

   Sand with 320 grit until smooth. Wipe off any sanding dust with a paper towel (you don’t have to go crazy removing the dust- just the heavy stuff).

   Apply a 1# cut of shellac and let dry well ( if you think it’s dry wait another hour). Sand again with 320 grit and wipe off any dust.

   Apply BLO liberally and sand in with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper. If the oil is absorbing apply more. Once done sanding let the oil remain on the wood for no more than 2-3 minutes (even if the piece looks light it will continue to darken over 12-24 hours) and wipe off with paper towel (leaving BLO on for a long period of time or repeated coats turns cherry a funny orange color). Let dry overnight.

   Apply Generals wiping satin urethane 3 coats ( no need to sand between coats or sand in the finish). Allow to dry throughly between coats ( if you think it’s dry wait another hour).

   After the last coat is dry apply paste wax thinned with mineral spirits (75% wax and 25% mineral spirits- I keep this in its own tin). Apply the wax with 0000 steel wool. Let dry and buff.

   Your finish should be smooth.

5. 
   joeleonetti | Oct 07, 2019 03:55pm | #6

   My favorite is to use a 1 to 1.5 pound cut of garnet shellac. I will put on three or four coats, then lightly sand with 400 grit sand paper by hand to remove raised grain/nibs. Then another three to four coast and finish with wax. If I want gloss, I use an old t-shirt with the wax. If I want it more muted such as a matt finish, I use 0000 steel wool to apply the wax. It's simple to do and looks really good.