I’ve got a cherry coffee table about ready for finishing. The wife wants the look of an oil finish, but durable enough to take wear — and absolutely doesn’t want a glossy looking finish. For other small pieces (a couple of display tables) I simply used a half-dozen coats of tung oil — exactly the look she wants, but none of these little tables gets any real use, so I wasn’t particularly worried about scratches, spilled liquids, etc. The coffee table is going in a family/TV room, and will undoubtedly host hot and cold beverages, food, and two-dozen remote controls (or so my wife claims. It’s really only three).
What’s a reasonable finishing strategy? Can I still use Tung oil as my base & build coats, and then use something more durable as a top coat?
-M.
Replies
MarkH,
I used Waterlox on my Ash coffee table that is in the family room. I used six coats applied by hand and sanded between coats....starting with 220 grit and finihsing with 600. I don't know if the applied by hand or progressive grits between coats had any impact...but the finish is really nice and no show of damage after a year of use...
Mark,
If it were me, I'd lay down a few coats of reduced polyurethane, then knock down any sheen with Scotch Brite.
Jon
Do you mean poly as build/topcoats over a tung oil base, or poly all by itself? ...and when you say 'reduced polyurethane', what's the correct solvent for reducing (and at what reduction factor)?
Thanks,
-M.
Mark,
"Do you mean poly as build/topcoats over a tung oil base, or poly all by itself?"
Poly all by itself.
"when you say 'reduced polyurethane', what's the correct solvent for reducing"
There are many different ones you can use. It all depends on how you are applying it and your climate. Toluol, xylol, and mineral spirits will all work. Toluol evaporates really fast and mineral spirits can take days, with xylol in between.
Experiment, and don't be afraid to try mixes and varying ratios of each. (on scraps of course)
Jon
Mark,
Just a thought, and I never have actually tried this. By using a slow evaporating reducer like mineral spirits on the first coat, you MAY wind up with a deeper penetrating , more durable finish. Like I said before, pays to experiment.
Jon
Even the mineral spirits diluent dries in a matter of hours. You can put on 4+ coats/day if you want.Gretchen
I did a cherry buffet once using 1 coat of pure tung oil cut 50% with paint thinner. I rubbed it in hard with the palm of my hand then used a dampened cotton cloth to take off all residue (dampened with paint thinner). After letting that dry for a few days I then started putting on coats of poly cut about 30% with paint thinner. Just flooded it on the surface. I'd rub it in hard with the palm of my hand then use a dampened cotton pad wiping with the grain. After that dried I went over it with 0000 steel wool. Then do the same thing over. Did four coats best I remember. After last coat had dried 4 or 5 days I buffed it with a lambs wool bonnet on my electric buffer. It came out beautiful. Was more of a semi gloss instead of a high gloss and was smooth as glass. The poly was Deft brand high gloss.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
"Even the mineral spirits diluent dries in a matter of hours. You can put on 4+ coats/day if you want."
Gretchen,
You are correct in that it can, BUT it depends HUGELY on the climatic conditions you are using it in. That's why we use different solvents for the same finish. Maybe in Arizona, but if you use mineral spirits to reduce polyurethane in your unheated garage workshop in forty degree weather, and a dew point in the thirties, I guarantee you it will still be gummy and tacky after three days,
Jon
I haven't tried too many finishes, so I don't have broad experience. But, I've used Minwax Helmsman on many pieces (lots of cherry), including tables and counter tops, and I'm happy with the results. It comes in several glosses. For durability, it's right up near the top.
If you have access to spray equipment then I would recommend Sherwin Williams' KEMVAR "C" vinyl conversion varnish. It is specifically designed to yield that same kind of "close to the wood" look that a simple wipe on oil finish does, yet will provide significantly more protection than any oil finish. SW suggests their oil finish underneath it to enhance the look. So, I can't see any reason why Tung oil wouldn't work just as well as theirs... which probably contains some Tung oil anyway. At any rate... vinyl is widely used as a moisture barrier underneath other clear finishes. So, going with a vinyl conversion varnish should prove to be an ideal finish for a coffee table that will get a lot of use.
If you don't have access to spray equpment then I'd second Jon's suggestion. I think the thinned down poly would give that "close to the wood" look that you say your wife wants. Building up layers would enhance the protection factor. But, it would also negate the look. Stick with thin, durable and low sheen and you should end up with a finish that looks reasonably close to the other oil-only stuff you mentioned while being more durable than just an oil finish.
Regards,
Kevin
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