Replies

1. 
   k9s | May 29, 2003 04:34am | #1

   Have read the thing to use is mineral oil as it will not go rancid as vegtable oils will.

2. 
   mspretired | May 29, 2003 04:41am | #2

   As k9s said, Mineral Oil is what you want. All vegetable oils will turn rancid.

1. 
   danman71 | May 29, 2003 05:33am | #3

   thanks guys!  That's the info I was looking for.  I've never encountered the scent of rancid vegetable oil but I'm sure I'm happy to avoid it.

   Dano

1. 
   forestgirl | May 29, 2003 09:19am | #4

   Dano, you've gotten the correct advice here and in record time it seems.  Last year, when this topic came up a zillion times during the summer, there were all kinds of off-target suggestions.  A tip -- warm the oil before applying it.

   One thing, in case anyone finds this thread via a search a couple months from now, never ever use peanut oil to finish wood food-handling items with.  Those who are allergic would be greatly endangered by eating food prepared on, or served with such items.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | May 29, 2003 12:11pm | #5

   Forestgirl -- thanks for pointing out an inmportant subject. Food allergies are very serious stuff. My stepdaughter has them.

   And as you say, peanut oil in a finish could be disastrous, even many years after the piece is finished.

   I believe that most readers would be surprised to learn that a number of "food-safe" finishes can cause allergic reactions. For example, I've seen some "salad bowl finishing" products that are primarily walnut oil. I agree that this is quite safe for the non-allergic. But for those with nut alergies, it could be fatal (literally).

   Also somewhat surprising, is the relative safety of many finish products which are not billed as food-safe. Linseed oil is made from flax, and is generally safe. All shellacs, varnishes, and polyurethanes are non-toxic once they have cured. And most interior paints are as well.

   The suggestions, earlier in this thread, to use mineral oil, are excellent.

   Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.

3. 
   HowardAcheson | May 30, 2003 02:25am | #6

   To add to the durability of mineral oil, you can use the mixture frequently used to treat real butcher blocks. Use a double boiler and heat the mineral oil as suggested. Then shave in some paraffin. A 5-10 parts mineral oil to 1 part paraffin will work. Liberally apply the mixture while still hot, set aside and let it be fully absorbed for a couple of hours. Do it again the next day. Then, gently scrape off any excess and buff with a soft rag if you want.

   This treatment lasts quite a bit longer than just mineral oil. When the wood begins to look dry, reapply the mixture.

1. 
   danman71 | May 30, 2003 03:14pm | #7

   Wow!  Thanks again everyone.  I hadn't thought of heating the oil.  That will help for sure.

   Has anyone heard of cases where a person had an allergic reaction to mineral oil?

   Does anyone believe the mineral oil could affect any food cut on the chop top, mineral oil being a laxative and all?

   Dano

1. 
   forestgirl | May 30, 2003 06:54pm | #9

   There should be no problems with the oil affecting food or people's digestive systems.  Nor any with allergic reactions.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | May 30, 2003 11:22pm | #10

   Once again, I agree with Forestgirl -- no allergies and no adverse reactions from the mineral oil.

   Concerning the question of finishing the underside...... In my opinion, you should always finish all sides of every piece -- it helps to avoid problems with uneven moisture absorbtion.  And when possible, the finishes should be the same. So -- Yes, use the mineral oil on the bottom and all sides.

   Note that with normal use, the top of the block will need periodic reapplications of the mineral oil, but the sides and bottom should not.

   Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.

2. 
   danman71 | May 30, 2003 03:18pm | #8

   One more thing.  What about moisture?  All of the oil is only going on top of the board.  Is there anything to do to the underside?  Or is this not much of a concern with this type of finish.

   Dano

4. 
   KyleZ | May 31, 2003 05:44pm | #11

   Dano,

   You've gotten great advice so far.  I will add a couple of points.  I make up a finish similar to Howie's except that I substitute bees wax for paraffin.  Buy your mineral oil from a pharmacy instead of a woodworking supplier.  It is much cheaper.

   Cheers

   Kyle

1. 
   danman71 | Jun 01, 2003 02:43am | #12

   thank you to everyone.

   The underside is finished, the top looks great, it was cheap, and extremely simple.

   I look forward to asking for info about my next project.

   Dano

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 02, 2003 02:48am | #13

   dano

      BTW, if you have kids that need baseball gloves broken in, don't buy the little tiny 2 oz. bottle of Louisville Slugger glove oil for $5 or $6. If you look carefully at the contents of it, it says 99.5% mineral oil and .05% dye. ha..ha..

   sarge..jt