Replies

1. 
   Ron01960 | Feb 14, 2006 12:33am | #1

   I just so happened to have done my double mahogany doors this past fall.

   I went to several boat yards and talked with the men who only work on all wooden, high end boats. Based on their recommendations I purchased 2 qts. of the very best marine varnish.

   Each door has 8 raised panels. What a pain! But they look great.

   Ron

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 14, 2006 02:01am | #2

   Use a good, non-poly marine varnish.  Poly rapidly deteriorates when exposed to direct sunlight.

   Howie.........
3. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 14, 2006 02:26am | #3

   Howie is right.  Marine spar varnish, is made by companies such as Epifanes, Interlux or Pettit is a different class of varnish than stuff sold in paint stores or big box stores.  The good stuff is not made by companies such as Minwax or McCloskey no matter how nautical their names sound.  You NEED to pay very close to $25 per quart--no free lunch here. 

1. 
   wajacobs | Feb 14, 2006 05:48pm | #4

   Thanks for all the input. 

    I think I'll stop by Rockler today and see what they have as far as spar varnish.   As long as the tung oil dries completely (7days?) I should have no trouble applying the spar varnish over it, right? 

   -w

1. 
   Gretchen | Feb 14, 2006 09:05pm | #5

   Howie, how about the deep tint base for this.Gretchen

1. 
   Ricklapp | Feb 14, 2006 11:49pm | #6

   Actually, McCloskey's Man O' War spar varnish is a pretty good product; I have used it for marine applications with good results.  The rule of thumb for brightwork on boats is 8-10 coats initially, with 1-2 renewal coats annually.  More coats and more frequent applications are needed in areas with higher UV exposure.  If your front door is sheltered from the elements and not in direct sunlight you could get by with a less aggressive approach.  Spar varnish is the way to go though.  Rick

1. 
   John_D | Feb 15, 2006 12:05am | #7

   "Brightwork" is one of those very few words I've heard many times, but never once in a context from which I could deduce its meaning.  The Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary defines it simply as "polished or plated metalwork" which pretty closely matches what I thought it would mean.  But you seem to be referring to wood, right?  So what does "brightwork" mean to you?

   Thanks!My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

2. 
   Ricklapp | Feb 15, 2006 02:11am | #8

   'Brightwork' on boats refers to any wood that is finished 'bright' or with a tranparent finish, as opposed to painted or left uncoated entirely.  A scrubbed teak deck is an example of the last.  Rick

   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0071579818/qid=1139958644/sr=2-1/ref=pd_bbs_b_2_1/103-8053145-5079057?s=books&v=glance&n=283155

3. 
   John_D | Feb 15, 2006 05:24am | #9

   Ahh, I understand.  Thank you.My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

4. 
   Mikesp | Feb 16, 2006 04:12am | #10

    I actually have honduras mahogany doors on my home that I built. They are east facing, some early morning sun, under a poch roof, northern michigan climate ( 90's in the summer - as low as -30's in the winter). I finished them with waterlox tung oil 4 years ago and they look wonderful. Easy to repair if scratched ( 3dogs) 3 coats-320 sanded- final finish coat with badger hair brush. I also have a 1500 sq ft porch in brazilian walnut covered with waterlox ( porch - lakefront - driving rains in the summer - presently under several inches of snow ) The porch is a magnificent warm walnut color. Tung oil actually is UV resistant by chemical structure. The problem with marine varnish is that it will become brittle with time and needs to be redone. I got the impetus to use Waterlox after talking with Jeff Jewitt @ Homestead Finishing several years prior. Give him a call, he's a wealth of information. You can find Homestead on the internet with his company phone #. Good Luck - Mike

1. 
   wajacobs | Feb 16, 2006 07:01pm | #11

   Thanks Mike,

   So you didn'y use any kind of sealer over the tung oil?  Is the waterlox product a pure tung oil or a blend.

    

   -wes

    

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 17, 2006 01:58am | #12

   Waterlox is a varnish, not an oil or oil/varnish product.  It is manufactured using tung oil modified with phenolic resin.  This is the same basic combination as marine spar varnish, except that the spar varnish has added UV inhibitor chemicals and has over 50% solids content, so that one brushed on coat of varnish is about equivalent to 4 or so coats of wiped on varnish. 

   Spar varnish is a long oil varnish in the sense that there was relatively a large amount of oil relative the the resin.  The combination adds to flexibility...I don't know the Waterlox (assuming this is the Original/Sealer product that most people mean when they just say Waterlox) oil to resin formula but the way it handles I would guess it is fairly long, but not so long as spar varnish.  In similar thicknesses I suspect Waterlox will lose flexibility as fast or faster than marine spar.  Waterlox does have a "marine" variant that adds UV inhibitors.) 

   Manufacturers of marine spar recommend 6 - 8 coats of nearly full strength varnish.  The reason for this is to provide some protection to the wood in the substrate by blocking more UV penetration.  Varnish often fails in the sun when the wood underneath deteriorates weakening the bond.  The varnish lifts, even though the firm had been intact.  Once the film does break the failure accelerates. Spar varnish, needs to be scuff sanded and an additional coat added every year in full sun, with a longer interval if there is shade.  Any ding or scratch should be patched quickly.   

2. 
   Mikesp | Feb 18, 2006 05:20pm | #14

   No sealer - just original Waterlox or Satin Waterlox. The mil thickness is nowhere as great as marine varnish and that seems to be why it does not get brittle or break down. It's also very easy to sand out any scratches and repair with no visible repair. Also, as waterlox has a smaller molecular size than linseed oil it is a penetrating finsh and  doesn't simply sit on top of the wood. I've used numerous finishes over the years on different projects and all I can tell you is my exterior mahogany doors ( 3 panels - 10ft tall by 9 foot wide ) look fabulous after 4 years with no refinishing yet. Hope that helps.

1. 
   wajacobs | Feb 18, 2006 11:49pm | #15

   Thanks again Mike,

   I decided to go with the waterlox.  I spoke with them a couple days ago and they suggested using the sealer first (2 coats) followed by wiping on two coats of the marine.  The said the marine has the best UV resistance and that by wiping it on it won't build up such a thick coat that it will get brittle.

   -wes

5. 
   rayfitz1 | Feb 18, 2006 01:32am | #13

   Hi, I just joined this forum.

   I have used Sikkens Cetol Marine on some exterior projects. I used clear double-worked pine on a workspace, and wanted to keep it visible. Pine does not weather well, so it needed something good. Polyurathatnes do not work well in my experience. Spar varnish will peal like paint in time, and looks 'thick'.
   I tried Sikkens Cetol Marine finish and really like the finished look. It has a tint to it, so you need to test it first. You also MUST use a respirator when you use it. Keep pets away from it until it is dry. I first applied it about 7 years ago, and it has absolutely no pealing, flaking, or apparent wear. I put a coat on every two years. Something to consider.

   Ray Fitzgerald