Replies

1. 
   Jeff_Jewitt | May 17, 1999 03:21am | #1

   *
   Its not a good idea to put pure oils over a sealed surface. Oils build gummy and soft.
   I would suggest spray aerosol lacquers like Deft or Behlen. The best feature of lacquer - besides the quick dry time is the fusion between coats. When you rub out the lacquer - no rubbing through.
   Lacquer also rubs out better than poly.

   Jeff Jewitt

   If lacquer is too objectionable due to the smell -- try dewaxed shellac. It has all the features of lacquer but is a tad less durable.

1. 
   Brendan_Maurer | May 17, 1999 05:50am | #2

   *Thanks for the advice. Hope it turns out well.

1. 
   Clint_Searl | May 17, 1999 06:11am | #3

   *I have successfully rubbed out multi layer poly applications. Rub through won't occur if second and following poly coats are applied before complete polymerization of the under layer has taken place. I rub out with wet silcarb up to 600 grit, followed by auto polishing compound. That said, I prefer to use a sprayed on nitro or CAB acrylic lacquer over water soluble aniline dye stain, rubbed out with auto compound if necessary. Usually not necessary.I suggest you strip the old finish with a MEC stripper, washed with naptha, then one of the above finishes.Clint Searl

1. 
   Pierre_Viau | Mar 09, 2000 02:38pm | #4

   *Distressing:Looking for definitive guide on distressing furniture to achieve European or "Old World" finish.

1. 
   Charles_Hicks | Mar 10, 2000 04:55pm | #5

   *I just completed my first jewelry box from Walnut. What type of filler is best before a coat of Danish Oil?

2. 
   bob_schepens | Apr 16, 2000 07:49am | #6

   *We have used 2 coats of Danish oil followed by 2 coats of beeswax on our jewelry boxes. The finish is beautiful but the odor is very strong and offensive even after leaving it exposed to the open air for over two weeks. Any suggestions on how to eliminate the strong odor ?

3. 
   CStanford_ | Apr 16, 2000 08:39pm | #7

   *Bob, it should not be the Danish oil causing the problem. What sort of solvent did you use for your beeswax? FWIW, while I have seen tons of recipes over the years for formulating one's own wax polishes, I tend to trust the companies who've been at it for decades, some over 100 years. Try stripping the wax with mineral spirits and start over with a commercial brand like Mylands, Fiddes, or Briwax.As for Brendan's original question, I'd consider the use of a wiping varnish. Don't laugh, but Formby's tung oil varnish in either gloss or semi-gloss is as good as any you'll find. The desired amount of build is easy to control. A jewelry box might look more appropriate with the gloss type, but that's a matter of your own taste of course.I have found that the Formby varnish rubs out fine. It is also packaged in a convenient size for small projects. Success is practically guaranteed if you simply follow the package directions....When working Danish oil, you typically would again, follow the package directions fairly closely for the application of three coats following the instructions for drying times and using common sense. After the last coat is fully cured, you could apply two coats of wax polish, again following package directions explicitly and buff each coat to your heart's content by hand with a soft cloth.Your project will look just fine.

4. 
   Gary_Zimmerman | Jul 06, 2000 09:52pm | #8

   *SeaFin Teak Oil/Watco. I'm finishing a Eastern Maple table top and I want to use something like these. I intend to apply Tung Oil first. Are these varnishes and do they yellow a lot more than a lacquer. I do not want a "built up" finish.