I’m in the process of building some new doors for my kitchen cabinets. They are solid hickory frames with hickory plywood panels. I need a clear finish that will hold up in the moist kitchen environment. No stain, just a clear finish. I don’t like glossy finishes, and just want to have a “natural” look.
For furniture, I generally use either boiled linseed oil and a coat of paste wax, or I use Fornby’s tongue oil finish (low gloss), which I think is basically a wiping varnish, and then a coat of paste wax. Does anyone know how Fornby’s would last in a kitchen, especially the cabinets that are over the stove? Or is there something else that would give me low-gloss protection and is easy to apply? It’s just some doors and drawer fronts, and it’s a small kitchen, so I’m looking for something I can wipe or brush on. I don’t want to mess with spraying anything.
Holler
Replies
Water-based polyurethane, in matte or semi-matte finish. Stands up to anything the kitchen will throw at it, and won't yellow appreciably. Spraying would be better, but it can be easily brushed. Three coats.
DR
Holler,
I agree with ring. I'm finishing up kitchen cabinets for my daughter and son-in-law. Water based poly, 4 coats on everything except the door and drawer fronts which will get 5 or 6 and then rubbed out. I always use glossy for the first 2 coats and semi on the rest. I also use a painting pad and just be careful with the bubbles. One more thing. Use the best poly you can get.
ASK
One more question. What exactly is "hand rubbed" and how do you do it with water poly?
Holler,
For years I used to rub out varnishes with pumice and oil, or pumice and water. Lots of elbow grease and great results. (Check any good finishing book). But at the rate our shop turns out kitchens it is just impractical. I spray (in a very good spray room) water-based polyurethane, 3 or 4 coats, sanding with 320 grit between. After the last coat is dry I sand with 1500 grit paper. This is not really sanding, it is a light going-over with the same piece of 1500 paper I've been using for 6 months at least. It may not be esoteric, but it is lightening fast and 90% as good as rubbing my arm off.
DR
Edited 6/3/2005 3:11 am ET by ring
I prefer regular polyurethane to water based versions. I find it harder and more durable,easier to rub out. But the better ones cost more; and the poorer performers use soya resins which are hard to buff. Its color is slightly more amber but this adds warmth, similar to what linseed oil does. And some waterbased polys are not at all any "safer" to work with. A readup of MSDS sheets will tell you that.
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