Replies

1. 
   chris_lacy | Apr 05, 2000 09:36pm | #1

   *
   I just completed 8 dining room chairs out of mahogany and used 3 light coats of Watco Dark walnut. It kept the red hue but darkened the pores, I love the look. My wood varied in tone also, the oil seemed to blend everything together without hiding the grain.

   I did not topcoat it other than wax.

1. 
   CStanford_ | Apr 07, 2000 04:26pm | #2

   *Chris has hit the nail on the head. I'd do it exactly as he prescribed, always trying it out on a piece of scrap FIRST.

1. 
   Mike_Taylor2 | Apr 09, 2000 06:09am | #3

   *Mahogany will take oil stains well. I always use grain filler with mahogany after staining. I've finished Mahogany with about everything - Poly, Lacquer, oil. For outdoor use, use an oil, either linseed oil or tung oil. Cut at least 50% with turpentine or thinner. Poly will make a hard protective finish. Using #0000 steel wool after it has cured will soften its appearence. You can use about anything on Mahogany. Lot of the old furniture used shellac.

1. 
   Barry_McNicol | May 22, 2000 06:02am | #4

   *Hi Mike,I've just finished a Chicago bench (garden bench) from a plank of Brazilian Mahogany. On a test piece, I applied a coat of Marine Varnish (I'm concerned about moisture particularly in end grain). However, I don't like the look (mixture of brown and red streaks). Questions are : Does mahogany go grey or red when exposed to sunlight with a Marine Varnish finish?Does an oil based finish provide the same level of waterproof protection?thanksbarry

1. 
   Bill_c_ | Jun 03, 2000 01:32am | #5

   *I've been making furniture for 20 years in cherry and maple, but this is the first time I've made anything in mahogany. It's an 18th century reproduction pie crust tilt top and I want to come as close as possible to the finish and, more important, the color of the period. Honduras mahogany is quite red and all of the oil penetrating stains I've tried on scrap don't damp down the red. What can I use to create that almost black with red highlights found in period pieces? I've invested many hours in carving and I don't want to blow it on the finish.

2. 
   Bill_c_ | Jun 07, 2000 12:12am | #6

   *I've been making furniture for 20 years in cherry and maple, but this is the first time I've made anything in mahogany. It's an 18th century reproduction pie crust tilt top and I want to come as close as possible to the finish and, more important, the color of the period. Honduras mahogany is quite red and all of the oil penetrating stains I've tried on scrap don't damp down the red. What can I use to create that almost black with red highlights found in period pieces? I've invested many hours in carving and I don't want to blow it on the finish.

3. 
   Rob_Millard | Jun 08, 2000 02:27pm | #7

   *Try Lockwoods standard Red Mahogany aniline dye followed by home made walnut husk stain( FFW Wood Publication for direction on how to make this). Also try standard hydrated lime mixed with distilled water. This will turn the mahogany a deep red, and if your mahogany is figured enough,it will turn some areas almost black, all without hiding the grain. I stain my pieces with Behlen Lemon Yellow NGR stain first, that give the golden undertone that the old pieces have. It will look like a school bus after the lemon yellow goes on, but this with disappear when you over stain it.