Replies

1. 
   Lataxe | Nov 02, 2006 02:13pm | #1

   George,

   At this very momnt there is a 2ft X 6ft X 12/4 hard maple worktop curing within the Record T-bar clamps in my driveway (the shed lacks the space).  I managed to lift the two bits previously laminated to the glue up table; but I am getting the hernia strap ready for the effort of trying to lift the glued-up single top back into the shed where awaits the bench base.

   I was hoping to use anti-gravity paint as the initial finish, but a strong friend will have to do.  :-)

   On the grounds that the top will be getting a flattening from time to time, as it gets dinged, dirty or maybe settles down (it consists of 8 pieces glued edge-wise so is sure to twist and bump a little bit at first) I will be finishing it with Danish oil.  This is a finish that's easily renewed, after the top has been planed, scraped or sanded to keep it flat.

   In fact, I have thought that I might not finish it at all, except by way of the splashes of stuff it will get as I make furniture on and around it.  But a few coats of oil should serve to stop glue and other sticky stuff from adhering too tenaciously, meaning less top-cleaning in the long run....?

   It's my first bench, so I'm guessing here and will be interested in the answers you get from more experienced with benches.

   Lataxe

1. 
   [email protected] | Nov 02, 2006 02:51pm | #3

   LataxeI agree with the Danish Oil. I too thought about no finish at all. One piece of advice I had from the fellow who sold me the wood and has been doing fine woodworking for 35+ years and has taught on the technical level suggested that I seal the ends to avoid checking and splitting.I think he too may be right.Thanks,
   GeorgePS I estimated the weight at about 257 pds if my calculations are right. I don't think my wife (who weighs 110 pds and is 5'2) will be able to help me on this one!

1. 
   Lataxe | Nov 02, 2006 09:18pm | #6

   George,

   The advice about sealing the end grain makes sense - although I intend to put a thin breadboard on one end and a 9/4 inner vice jaw across the other end.  However, as these will only be fixed to the ends in the centre (albeit supported with a dry tongue and groove to either side) I suppose oil could be squeezed into the dry gaps , to soak into the end grain.....

   I have also made shallow dips along the glued-edge lengths of the lamination, which is a standard way to help avoid end checking when making table tops from joined planks. With ordinary tabletops this technique, together with breadboard ends, seems to avoid the end-checking that might otherwise occur - but better safe than sorry so the oil will be going into those unglued sections of the worktop end grain too.

   Howie's advice about the oil-based finishing sounds well thought out, so I'll be doing his second option.

   The heavy weight of a thick top is a good thing , I know, for stability when using the tools on the completed bench. But a 3ins thick, sharp-cornered "plank"of 6-8ft weighing hundreds of pounds is a difficult thing to manouvre whilst the bench-building is done.  I am trying not to drop mine on me toes, as it will hurt and also ding the nice clean edge of the maple (and probably the floor)!

   How do you intend to flatten yours?  The tradition says "use a jointer plane" but (a) I haven't got one; (b) the grain of the laminated pieces goes every which-way; (c) I am(via previous practice as a machine-oriented woodworker) a dab hand with a belt sander in a sanding frame. 

   Nevertheless, I am thinking of flattening with a steep-angled blade in a BU smoother plane, as practice for the new venture in making stuff with hand tools.  I dread a serious tear out on the not-easily-read grain of a lamination, because I am inexperienced with handplanes.  Also, I suppose a final scraping would then be in order (more hard work).

   Happily, the Scheppach planer-thicknesser has done a very good job making square, straight, even pieces for the lamination, so the top is less than 0.5mm from flat, according to my straight edge. But that maple is hard stuff, whether planed or sanded.

   Lataxe

1. 
   [email protected] | Nov 03, 2006 01:02am | #8

   Fortunately I have the use of a commercial 47" 3 drum wide belt sander. Almost feel like I'm cheating, but hey...

2. 
   cherryjohn | Nov 02, 2006 02:43pm | #2

   Waterlox Original.  Tough as all get out and easily repaired.  Ive used that stuff on floors and dining table tops as well as my own bench.  Great stuff.  4 coats should do nicely

   Wicked Decent Woodworks

   (oldest woodworking shop in NH)

   Rochester NH

   " If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"

3. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Nov 02, 2006 04:03pm | #4

   Danish oil or Waterlox goes on all the benchs I do. You're going to have to true them eventually and neither pose a problem to doing it quickly and getting another coat of finish back on the newly resurfaced area.

   Regards...

   SARGE..

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 02, 2006 06:09pm | #5

   Let me take a somewhat contrary position on workbench treatments. IMO, a film finish (lacquer, shellac, varnish, poly varnish) is not the way to go. A workbench is going to get dinged and film finishes will crack or craze or be otherwise damaged. Once a film finish is penetrated, it looses its effectiveness and adjacent areas begin to fail. I much favor a "in the wood finish". Here are two that lots of folks find effective.

   First, is an mineral oil and wax finish. Yes, similar to the one used for cutting boards and butcher blocks. Sand the surface to 180 grit. Mix paraffin or bees wax into heated mineral oil. The ratio is not critical but about 5-6 parts of mineral oil heated in a double boiler with one part paraffin or beeswax shaved in. Apply this mixture to the benchtop liberally and allow to set overnight. Do it again the next day and again the following day if the top continues to absorb it. After a final overnight, lightly scrape off any excess wax and buff. This finish will minimize the absorbsion of any water and you can use a damp rag to wipe up any glue excess. Dried glue will pop right off the surface. Renewal or repair is easy. Just use a scraper to remove and hardened stuff, wipe down with mineral spirits using a 3/0 steel wool pad, wipe off the gung and apply another coat of mineral oil/wax mixture.

   My personal preference is for an oil/varnish mixture treatment. Either use Minwax Tung Oil Finish, Minwax Antique oil or a homebrew of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, your favorite varnish or poly varnish and mineral spirits. Sand the benchtop up to 180 grit. Apply the mixture heavily and keep it wet for 15-30 minutes. Wipe off any excess completely. Let it dry overnight and the next day, apply another coat using 4/0 steel wool. Let it set and then wipe off any excess. Let this dry 48-72 hours. Apply a coat of furniture paste wax and you're done. This treatment is somewhat more protective than the wax and mineral oil as the varnish component adds some protection from not only water both some other chemicals also. The waxing makes the surface a little more impervious to water so you can wipe up any liquid adhesive. It also allows hardened wax to be scraped off. Repair and renewal is easy. Just go throught the same scraping, wiping down with mineral spirits and reapplication of the BLO/varnish/mineral spirits mixture and an application of paste wax.

   Both of the above treatments are quite protective but are easy to maintain and renew. They do not fail when the surface takes a ding.

   Howie.........
5. 
   alanplanesaw | Nov 03, 2006 12:57am | #7

   geodown,

   Post a photo of the bench when you get a chance.

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   [email protected] | Nov 03, 2006 01:02am | #9

   Will do.,,