Hi,
I just got aoffered a job of making some Mission style bathroom cabinets. probably be some trim as well. With it being a wet area -it is separate from the shower so not too bad-I’m not so sure a typical furniture finish would work. I’ve used Jewitts recipes in the past to good results but I’m leaning towards something a bit more rugged for this.
I’ve used oil/uretahne “stains” on some projects but I’m not sure I can use other pigments or tints with them to create a custome color. We’re leaning towards a light fumed look with some red in it to match the other furniture in the bedroom.
The project will probably be a faceframe with 2-4 doors and drawers and some door and base trim with tile floors.
Thanks,
Cor.
Replies
and your question is....
Any recommondations for a Mission style finish for solid oak in a bathroom ie/ high humidity damp area?Sorry I was so vague...C
Like Don says, I use poly in this situation for the best durability.You can create your own stains with tinting colors,linseed oil, and thinner aforehand.Or use premade ones.
I have a question to piggyback on this, how much of an issue is the humidity in a bathroom? My casual observation on this is that the humidity created from shower steam is intermittent and dissipates rather quickly, bringing the bathroom back to a relatively dry environment.
"humidity created from shower steam is intermittent and dissipates rather quickly" If that were true Jeff, a lot of kitchen/bathroom remodelers would go broke. - lol
Any woodwork (including MDF) in a bathroom or kitchen should be finished on all surfaces (front, back, inside, outside, and edges) to "seal" the material from moisture. The closer the woodwork is to a source of moisture, the more care required to protect it.
Corrado
I typically finish all wet area (kitchen, bathroom & laundry) cabinets & doors with 2 pack polyurethane. I prefer not to stain but when I have I havn't had any problems with stain under the poly.
Don
The water resistance of the clear topcoats and the number of coats you apply are the key to protecting the wood from water and moisture in the bathroom (and kitchen). Varnish, including polyurethane, is your best choice among the consumer level options (non-professional finishes). Take a look at the finish comparison chart that's included with the article at this link - Selecting a Finish.
Getting the color you want is just a matter of using the right colors for your dye and stain. If you thin dye and/or stain, you can lighten them up so they aren't so dark. Take a look at the different color options in the article at this link - Mission Finishes. You can interix dyes and stains for custom colors or you can tint your oil-base stains with pigments if you want. Just make sure the pigments are compatible.
Website
Thanks for the tips.I used the above mentioned/linked article to start mimicking a fumed finish a few years ago. I used the pigments and various oils to get a great finsish that I've actually been asked to reproduce for this project.I read elsewhere that using poly over the oil will cause problems but some of you are stating no problem..Time to experiment.Thanka again to all,Cor.
The only problem with using varnish (inlcuding poly) over oil is you want to make sure the oil is cured. If the oil isn't cured enough, the varnish can stay sticky instead of hardening. A barrier coat of dewaxed shellac over the oil is a good precaution.Paul S
Website
Any good water-based lacquer, or pre-catilzed lacquer would be fine for a BR vanity. I assume the top will be a solid surface material. Be sure and seal all surfaces including the drawer interiors.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled