I’ve just acquired 400 sq ft of old growth maple (rescued from the Great Lakes), kiln dried and ready to be laid down as flooring. It’s tongue ‘n groove, varying widths (4 1/2″ to 8 1/2, 3/4″ thickness and varying lengths up to 12 ft. Also includes some birdseye. I (think) I’ve got the finishing process figured out but would like to run this by this board. Following are steps for polyurethane finish, which was my original intention:
1/ Acclimatize wood in new home 2/ light sand/sponge 3/ seal 4/ dye stain (Lockwood early american honey amber) 4/ oil? 5/ 3 coats of poly, sand between each coat
Now, I am not sure about finishing with poly. Having read about Waterlox I am tempted to try it. However, some years back I did try a tung oil finish and completely messed up. Is it really practical as a floor finish and if 6 coats are needed, that’s a lot of work! Of course the Waterlox people will say its just great and you won’t be disappointed. The more I think about it, the covering of this type of wood with what is basically a plastic product would probably not do it justice. Thanks for any feedback.
Replies
I've got polyurethane on the hardwood floors at home, and kick myself every time I look at them. It chips and wears off in high traffic areas, and there is just no way to repair it. Not sure what the best alternative is. Some friends used whatever finish they use on bowling alleys, reasoning that those floors really take a beating. It's been about 20 years now, and their floor still looks good.
Jeff
Jeff,It really shouldn't be that bad -- it may be the application wasn't all it should be. As long as it hasn't worn through to the timber, go over the entire floor with about 150 grit on an orbital sander until you have a completely matt surface, clean it thoroughly and apply two more coats.This should be fine as long as the floor has never been waxed.IanDG
Sounds like it may be worth a try. Thanks.
Jeff
I finished with Varathane (oil-based) on my floors, it has held up to traffic very well.
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