Replies

1. 
   GRW | Nov 13, 2006 11:25pm | #1

   Polyuethane is the most water resistant finish I know. That's what I use for kitchens, and furniture where I think moisture will be an issue.

2. 
   LeeGrindinger | Nov 14, 2006 04:50am | #2

   Any varnish such as polyurethane can be converted to wiping varnish simply by thinning it 50% with mineral spirits. Wiping varnishes like Watco and Waterlox are already thinned. It's much cheaper to buy a full strength varnish and thin it yourself.

   Sand lightly between coats to remove nubs and help with the build.

   Lee

1. 
   rick12 | Nov 14, 2006 05:51am | #3

   I'm learning here. What are the benefits of creating a "wiping" varnish by diluting regular varnish with 50% mineral spirits? Is it done because it drys faster and you can apply more coats quicker? Also, can the wiping varnish be applied with a brush? Thanks. Rick

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 14, 2006 07:16am | #4

   The idea is that wiping varnish dries faster, hence doesn't collect as much dust and doesn't show brush strokes.  Consequently, some people think it is easier to get satisfactory results.  However, it takes about 3 coats of wiping varnish to be equivalent to one coat of brush on varnish.  Also, since each coat is thinner it is hard to rub out wiping varnish without cutting through to lower layers. 

   If I were using a hand applied finish, I would use a traditional resin varnish instead of polyurethane varnish since for kitchen cabinets you need to build a reasonably protective finish, and also need to be able to rub it out to the desired sheen, which is usually some sort of satin for kitchen cabinets.  Traditional resin varnish rubs out much more uniformly.  The principal protection benefit of polyurethane varnish is somewhat more abrasion resistance, something which I don't see as important for kitchen cabinets.   

2. 
   LeeGrindinger | Nov 14, 2006 05:05pm | #5

   I agree with everything Steve has said. Neither of us are fond of polyurethane because of it's application properties. As a film it's good because it's more scratch resistant and heat resistant than the alkyd varnishes but it's colder to the touch and much less user friendly.But, Rick, back to your question; Many find it much easier to wipe on a finish. Brushing is an acquired skill. Wiping is simply applying the finish with a moist rag and it is much easier to avoid runs and nibs. Like Steve says, a wiped on coat is quite thin though so it takes three or more wiped on coats to attain the thickness of one brushed coat. Either way it's important to sand lighly between coats to smooth and remove nibs. A nib is still a nib even with five more coats of finish on it.Lee

3. 
   LeeGrindinger | Nov 14, 2006 07:07pm | #6

   You know, it occurred to me that no one had actually given you solid alternatives.

   You're easiest option would probably be Waterlox. It's a thinned varnish for wiping.

   Benjamin moore makes a good alkyd varnish called Benwood. It would need to be thinned 50% for wiping. It's a so-so brushing varnish but great for spraying because the lower sheens like semi and satin level very well.

   McCloskey makes a very good alkyd varnish called Heirloom. It would need to be thinned 50% for wiping. It's a fabulous brushing varnish but you can't spray the lower sheens because the flattening agents don't atomize well resulting in uneven levels of gloss. It's the best varnish at leveling I've ever used and it very sweet to the touch.

   "Alkyd" is the term to remember. Alkyd is a term that describes the extraction of resins and the process means the resins were extracted from linseed or tung oil. These resins used with oils make much more user friendly products than the synthetic resins like polyurethane. They level much better than the synthetics.

   Now, just a note- varnish will impart an amber color to your maple. The more you apply the more amber it will be. If you want to keep that maple sapwood as white as it can be you need to look at a "water white lacquer" or dewaxed blond shellac. Shellac is not good around water.

   Lee