Replies

1. 
   Gretchen | Dec 12, 2009 01:45pm | #1

   Is it black?

   Gretchen
1. 
   jonnieboy | Dec 12, 2009 03:21pm | #2

   Hi Gretchen.

   I don't know what type of walnut it is. Whatever it is, they make caskets out of it. Much help, huh.

   I'll bet I can get a postive ID today. I'll try.

   --jonnieboy

2. 
   spotcheck | Dec 12, 2009 04:46pm | #3

   Ummmm......might be showing my ignorance, but is there any commonly-available domestic walnut other than black walnut?

    

   Thanks

2. 
   Don01 | Dec 12, 2009 07:44pm | #4

   Jonnieboy,

   Do you have any finishing product in you cupboard to test, or do you have a favorite form past experience? It can help if you have enough wood to be able to make a test strip.
   I am sure some of the more knowledgeable poster will give you better advice, but I'll jump in and point you to the wipe on poly products.
   That should be the easiest route to a nice finish that offers reasonable protection. I have not worked with walnut so do not know the best for that species.

   Don

1. 
   jonnieboy | Dec 13, 2009 01:51am | #6

   Don,

   For some reason I have what seems like 55 gallon drums of Danish Oil. Not sure how I got that much.

   I have some of the following:

   clear and amber Zinnser's shellac

   Varathane Classic Clear Diamond Wood Finish (Gloss)

   Pratt & Lambert  Varmor, Clear FinishSatin

   Cabot Satin Poly 

   BLO, Mineral Spirits, Den. Alcohol

   I was thinking of BLO and Shellac.

   Or, can I thin the Satin Poly with MS or BLO and wipe it on? That might be a good one.

   I'm definitely doing test strips.

   --jonnieboy

1. 
   Gretchen | Dec 13, 2009 02:03am | #7

   You want to use something that will not compromise the flavor of food/the coffee. I think it may need to be shellac, and protect from getting wet. Actually, I have heard that if you use totally unwaxed shellac, it is VERY water resistant. I don't think you can use anything with oil in it. It needs to be neutral.Gretchen

1. 
   sapwood | Dec 13, 2009 03:15am | #9

   I use dewaxed shellac as a resist on steel when I etch it. I can attest that shellac is very water resistant. When I etch, the steel may be in a salt water solution for up to half an hour, sometimes longer. There is some pitting at those times, but not much. It still takes a good deal of effort to remove the shellac when I've finished.

3. 
   spotcheck | Dec 13, 2009 01:25am | #5

   Jon - you got what you need?  lemme know you need any other free advice.

    

   Kent

4. 
   boilerbay | Dec 13, 2009 02:41am | #8

   jonnieboy,

   If it's not going to get constant soaking at the sink and a few drops of random water will get wiped off in a reasonably quick amount of time, I would suggest BLO finished with shellac on all the exterior parts NOT touching food. BLO won't hurt the food -- just smells forever in contained areas. Shellac or bare wood only on the hopper and on/in the drawer as any BLO will leave a lingering smell on the beans.

   Quick, easy and not hard to apply. If it's for Christmas, do the BLO immediately so it has time to dry at least 2 days. The Shellac only takes a few minutes. Waxed or not, Shellac is pretty water resistant.
   If your going to put on an additional finish over the shellac, then use unwaxed only.
   If your not concerned with bringing out the color and depth of the wood with BLO, then a straightforward wipe-on commercial finish will be fine

   BB

1. 
   jonnieboy | Dec 13, 2009 08:04am | #10

   Boiler and Gretchen,

   Where do you live? I'm going to pop on over to your houses and plant a big wet kiss on each of you.

   Aw heck, the roads are still bad from the storm. Can it wait until spring? I owe you one.

   --jonnieboy, "Romeo Shellac"

1. 
   boilerbay | Dec 13, 2009 08:29am | #11

   Glad to help.Now we have to talk about how long to roast your green coffee beans for your grinder :)http://www.sweetmarias.com/index.htmlBB

1. 
   jonnieboy | Dec 13, 2009 06:57pm | #14

   Ohhh yeah. Something for inside the mill! I'll be looking to you for recommendations on that one.

   -Jonnieboy 

2. 
   Gretchen | Dec 13, 2009 05:00pm | #12

   With all due respect to boilerboy, I just would NOT use any oil of any kind. It isn't that it is dangerous, but coffee is a VERY sensitive taste and you want nothing to interfere with it. 

   And as I often say, this advice may be worth exactly what you paid for it. But you're welcome--I'll take a little kiss from any gentleman, which I am sure you are!!  Good luck.Gretchen

1. 
   jonnieboy | Dec 13, 2009 06:56pm | #13

   No oil inside drawer. Got it.

   -jonnieboy

    

2. 
   boilerbay | Dec 13, 2009 06:58pm | #15

   Gretchen,No offense taken but as I thought I indicated with "BLO finished with shellac on all the exterior parts NOT touching food" meant no oil on food contact areas which is to say, all interior parts, the hopper, the grinder chute and the drawer. Perhaps I wasn't clear enough.Shellac on the inside of the grounds drawer, perhaps but that is for ease of cleaning. Finish isn't really required there either. BLO on the outside show areas won't influence the taste of the grind especially for the relatively short time the beans go through the process.Boilerbay

1. 
   Gretchen | Dec 13, 2009 10:38pm | #16

   Oh, I think finish inside may be necessary. I don't know what odor/flavor raw black walnut might lend to coffee either.  And the sides of this look pretty thin. I am not comfortable with oil on it at all. BUT it is all sort of an unknown.

   The best course might be lining the inside with 'something" as a complete barrier.  Mylar? Gretchen

2. 
   salamfam | Dec 19, 2009 08:44am | #17

   Hello Gretchen,

   I am with you in this one. Also, and you would know more about this than me because you may have delt with more antiques in your line of work, but wouldn't there be some kind of tin liner in these, kind of like in a tea caddy?