Replies

1. 
   DougF | Mar 09, 2005 09:44pm | #1

   Rod,

   I assume from your post that this is an exterior window.  Will the stained glass window be sandwiched between other glass or is the stained glass panel it?

   Personally, I would use teak or another suitable exterior wood but since the client has specified oak, I would use quarter-sawn white oak, dye-stained.  White oak is far more weather resistant than red oak.  I would use spar varnish with a UV blocker on the exterior and a poly on the interior of a sheen appropriate to the piece and room.  I would chamfer the exterior bottom rail to permit moisture runoff.  I would also consider drilling angled weep holes in the bottom rail channel to permit condensation to escape to the exterior.  I would support the zinc or lead caming in such a way in the bottom channel to let moisture run to a  weep hole(s).  No doubt you are aware that some experts consider zinc caming unsuitable for this type of application.  The acid-based patina may cause a slight discolorations in oak if it comes in contact with raw wood. 

   My $.02 worth.  My wife works in stained and fused glass so my advise is a combination of her experience with glass and bossing me around when it comes to frames.

   Doug

   
   

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   Edited 3/9/2005 1:46 pm ET by Doug

1. 
   barn | Mar 11, 2005 06:40pm | #2

   Thanks Doug!     The exterior will be wraped with aluminum, and sealed. The exterior glass is fixed 1/4" plate glass. The stained glass is then merily placed in an oak frame that is mounted in the actual window frame.                                                                 I just want to be sure that any stain and finish I use will stand up to the rigors of being exposed to the direct sunlight and temps.                                                           I will look into those you mentioned. Any particular brand that you have had luck with?

1. 
   DougF | Mar 11, 2005 07:40pm | #3

   Rod,

   I'm not sure what you mean by "directly mounted in the window frame".  If the piece will be in direct contact with the glass or window frame and they will be subjected to condensation (the windo is  not double or tripple panes and/or or the window frame is one piece metal) you should not use a top coat that be affected by water.  Spar varnish or polyurethene is probably the best for the part of the frame in direct contact.  Any good brand will work just fine.

   If, on the other hand, the piece is mounted in such a way to avoid direct contact with a mositure prone surface, then you choices are vitually unlimited.  I think my first choice would be a oil/poly rub on finish over your stain or natural wood.  The linseed oil will provide a very slight amber coloring.  This will give you a hand-rubbed stain finish with the protection of a poly or varnish.  There are a number of commerical products on the market or you can mix your own.  Prepared, I prefer Malouf's; Watco's is also popular.  If you want to make your own, mix equal parts of boiled linseed oil, varnish or polyurethene, and mineral spirits.  Apply with a rag, allow it to get slightly tacky, maybe 20 minutes, and then rub all of the excess off.  Let dry for 24 hours; more if it feels sticky or the next coat starts to drag.  Three coats should do it.  Let it throughly dry for about a week and follow with a good paste wax. 

   Doug

1. 
   barn | Mar 14, 2005 05:17pm | #4

   Sounds good! But what if I told you I have many winows to make and finish? Is there a spray formula that could speedup the finishing process? Can I ,or do I, need to thin out spar urethane to spray it on? Would that be a good chioce?           To clarify:  The window pane is also oak, clad with aluminum on the exterior, with a sheet of 1/4" glass fixed. Then the leaded glass is mounted in it's own oak frame that is then placed into the ,already mounted, oak pane. Hope this makes sense!  This way the leaded panel can be removed for window cleaning, etc.

1. 
   DougF | Mar 14, 2005 05:55pm | #5

   Rod,

   I understand.  Given the nature of leaded glass, I can not think of an easy way to "mass" produce the finishing process unless you pre-finish each frame piece and then assemble it.  Try to spray the assembled piece would be difficult unless the caming is sufficiently wide to permit a tight masking off of the glass.  You can thin just about anything for spraying but it depends on the gun and the material you are applying.  Settle on your the finish and read the manufactor's recommendation for spraying. 

   Doug