Replies

1. 
   Troy | Apr 25, 2006 06:12am | #1

   Here in the San Francisco bay area most of the pro finishers I see use a brush on poly that they apply with a sponge type mop. So you should be fine. If there is one in your area check out a supplier that caters to pros I am sure they can help you.

   Thanks

2. 
   splintergroupie | Apr 25, 2006 07:28am | #2

   I used "Shurline" brand paint pads for my oak floor, the best applicator i found for floors bec it has no fluff to pick out of the finish and the pivoting applicator head made for a more even and smoother film. Only drawback was that when i tried to store the used pad overnite for the second coat, the pad came off the plastic backing...an adhesive problem. Still...clean it or get 2-3 extra replacement pads ready for the applicator for subsequent coats, and you will be happy.

   If you haven't picked a finish, i had good luck with Parkes Satin Poly.

   
3. 
   Maigret | Apr 25, 2006 07:32pm | #3

   I used Varathane and their poly pads. As with brushes, you wet the pad before use. When I did, three of the four pads came apart. I would try another brand. I used oil based Varathane for the stairs, livingroom and halls because it is supposed to hold up longer. However, you need to be able to leave home because the vapors will make you feel certain you do not want to do a second or third coat. I've found it to be much easy to fix water based scratch marks, etc. Good luck. It's a lot of work but worth it.

4. 
   sapwood | Apr 25, 2006 08:32pm | #4

   You might want to consider the "wiping varnish" equivalent. I used Syntko Solids on my white oak floor. This material won't build to a shine like a poly, it's more a satin/soft gloss look. One applies it by mopping it on and rubbing in with a floor buffer. I did three coats back to back to back, similiar to the way I'd finish a table top. The floor is beautiful, deep rich color and none of that awful surface gloss. Scratches blend right in.

   It's easy to repair small blemishes. I recently dripped paint onto the floor that was a day drying before my wife noticed it. She scrubbed it up but left a white haze. I rubbed in a bit of the finish with a red pad and the haze is gone. Can't see where the spots were. So, like any oil type finish, it's easy to repair.

1. 
   jhounshell | Apr 25, 2006 08:47pm | #5

   Where did you get your floor buffer from? I'm assuming you mean one of those big, industrial floor polishers.Did the fumes run you out of the house?

1. 
   sapwood | Apr 26, 2006 12:45am | #7

   The machine I used is owned by a friend who is a flooring installer. This was a 16" machine, not huge but big enough for my area. These machines can be rented from any good tool rental company. The buffing pads are sort of like scotch bright pads except round and their thicker. I bought them from a place that sells supplies to the janatorial trade. The machine is very easy to run, but start well away from any wall until you get the hang of it.

5. 
   frenchy | Apr 25, 2006 10:40pm | #6

   jhounshell,

     I'm taking a differant attack to the flooring finish issue..

     I will have really elaborate floors with inlaid burls and brass and all that..

       so what I intend to do is finish with shellac.

     Yeh, shellac!

    

    two reasons.. I have a really big (140#)  dog and will proabably be getting another even bigger one..   They have the run of the house.. no matter how carefull I will be they will scratch up my floor finishes. 

    Second I don't want to have heavy paint or varnish fumes to live with..

    

     So I'm going to make it very easy to refinish and eliminate scratches..

     If I need to touch up once a week to eliminate scratches all I'l need to do is soak a pad with alcohol and rub out any scratches.. if the shellac starts to get a little thin I'll spray another layer or two on..

     I have a piano from the 30's (or40's)  that I stripped of it's original shellac finish in about an hour and reapplied a new one..  Looks new!

      

    

1. 
   pzgren | Apr 26, 2006 01:50am | #8

   Frenchy,

   <<....I have a really big (140#)  dog and......>>

   A Mastiff??

   James

1. 
   frenchy | Apr 27, 2006 05:53am | #20

   pzgren

    Newfoundland/ St Bernard cross,  kinda the runt of the litter, most St. Bernards are 150#'s plus

1. 
   pzgren | Apr 27, 2006 06:36pm | #21

   Sounds like a great combination; bet your "puppy" is fun to give a bath to, though...  ;-)

1. 
   frenchy | Apr 28, 2006 06:05pm | #22

   pzgren,

     As you know Newfoundlands have webbed feet  (really, you can look it up)   I live on a lake,  (enough said?) 

6. 
   jdubbs | Apr 26, 2006 02:40am | #9

   Waterlox! Check out their web site. Idiot proof to apply and stunning results.

7. 
   cherryjohn | Apr 26, 2006 02:49am | #10

   Jdubbs is right..Waterlox Original.  easiest stuff to apply you ever saw. tough as nails and easy to fix up if you get a scratch in the floor.  I used it on my floors and the made the look great.  250 y/o pine floors with 4 coats of waterlox.  First coat was dry in like 10 min.  Note the attached pic.  the raised panel over the fireplace was done with Waterlox too as was the bluestone mantle.  I would use anything else but now.

   Ok so I posted the same pic twice.oh well

   Wicked Decent Woodworks

   (oldest woodworking shop in NH)

   Rochester NH

   " If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/25/2006 7:50 pm ET by cherryjohn

   
1. 
   jhounshell | Apr 26, 2006 05:00am | #11

   I read the Waterlox floor finishing guide, and I think I'm going to try this one. Just wondering if you followed the Waterlox floor finishing guide. I'll be sanding with a random orbit sander, might go a step finer in the sandpaper than they recommend. Did you apply the finish with the lambswool applicator as they recommend? Will this hold up under high traffic (stair treads)?

1. 
   cherryjohn | Apr 26, 2006 05:13am | #12

   yes I applied it with the lambs wool applicator.  As far as traffic goes the floors in my kitchen get a fair amount of traffic and they still look great after 3 years.  The good thing about the product is once its down it takes nothing to touch it up againWicked Decent Woodworks

   (oldest woodworking shop in NH)

   Rochester NH

   " If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"

1. 
   jhounshell | Apr 26, 2006 05:17am | #13

   Did you use the Waterlox Sealer & Finish as the first coat or not?

1. 
   cherryjohn | Apr 26, 2006 07:32am | #14

   nope, 4 coats of Waterlox Original.  With the antique pine the first coat was dry almost as soon as I put it on.Wicked Decent Woodworks

   (oldest woodworking shop in NH)

   Rochester NH

   " If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"

2. 
   Danceswithwoods | Apr 26, 2006 08:38am | #15

   If this picture comes through, it's 3 coats of Waterlox original and 2 of satin layed down with a lambswool pad on santos mahogany with,quilted maple, wenge and tigerwood.  The Waterlox is great and, as stated, simple to repair.

1. 
   Danceswithwoods | Apr 26, 2006 08:58am | #16

   I can't get it to upload the picture!  I've followed the instructions and the little green boxes at the bottom fill up, but it doesn't seem to take.  Oh well...Use your imagination!

1. 
   sapwood | Apr 26, 2006 08:28pm | #17

   To you Waterlox folk: That stuff sounds pretty good. If you spilled a quart of white latex paint onto your floor, could you wipe it up without a trace?

2. 
   jdubbs | Apr 27, 2006 03:13am | #19

   With 4 coats of Waterlox to protect my floor I would be able to get all the paint up. Except for the little nooks and crannys where a rag wouldn't reach.

3. 
   cherryjohn | May 17, 2006 12:11am | #23

   if you found a piece of flooring with no seams and you put on anout 4 coats of waterlox.Im betting you couldWicked Decent Woodworks

   (oldest woodworking shop in NH)

   Rochester NH

   " If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"

8. 
   gb93433 | Apr 27, 2006 01:56am | #18

   A friend of mine who used to do the TGI Fridays uses Moisture Cure.

9. 
   daveinnh | May 18, 2006 02:50am | #24

   I applied Waterlox which has tung oil and varnish on our floors  We got the low odor citrus scent but it will smell strong so plan on open windows & fans for 4-5 days after each coat.  I applied 3 coats over yellow birch on the 2nd floor and beech on first floor with a lamb's wool applicator.  Like the directions say - attack a 4' x4' area; apply product; then re-brush bubbles out while not over brushing.

   The finish doesn't appear like "plastic", but is soft.  Reapplication is easy.

   It's not cheap though - I bought a dozen gallons at about $50 / gallon 1.5 years ago.  My hardware store contact says it's the tung oil component that raises the cost.  That being said, linseed oil tends to darken too much IMHO.