Replies

1. 
   stantheman | Feb 23, 2007 02:03am | #1

   FFsthomas

   what does "best protection" mean to you?  Paint would be best in some cases.  Iwould suggest lacquer (burhsing lacquer OK if no spraying capability) if you want no added color, or shellac if some amber is OK.  Poly would darken too much and look dull.  I did a hope chest some time ago, and thats what I decided.  Its pretty hadr to avoid that "souvenir store trinket" look to cedar, but you could rub the shellac down to a satin finish. 

   Its a shame that such an interesting looking wood like eastern red cedar doesn't gvie you too many options. 

2. 
   user-83153 | Feb 23, 2007 05:13am | #2

   Scott,

      I'm not sure why you addressed this question to me (maybe it wasn't intentional). I'm no finishing guru, just a guy who likes to experiment and learn as much as I can about it because I find it so rewarding.

      Anyway if you want my 2 cents I'll be glad to give it. If you are asking about protection from dings and dents on such a soft wood there really isn't any finish that is strong enough to reinforce wood. It is after all just a few mils thick. Poly has plenty of drawbacks compared to other types of varnish that cause me to avoid it. It has poor adhesion, poor uv resistance, poor clarity and a strong tendency to yellow with age. It's only real advantage is a slightly higher resistance to abrasion due to its relative softness.

     If you want a finish that will look good even through a few bumps and bruises you should probably use an in the wood type finish such as a home made danish oil(33% BLO, 33% mineral spirits, 33% varnish, these amounts are approximate, not written in stone) or a wipe on varnish(you can also make this yourself with roughly half and half mineral spirits and varnish). With these types of finish you can repair any problems by just putting on another coat. Neither of these, if applied correctly, will give you much gloss. As far as which varnish to use to make one of these, it depends on what kind of a look you are trying to achieve.

     If this doesn't answer your question give us more info on what you want the wood to look like and more detail on what you mean by protection and I will try to help.

                Rob

3. 
   dull tool | Feb 23, 2007 05:18pm | #3

   Scott Attached is a chest and matching chair I recently completed for my grand daughter. I used Minwax Helmsman gloss spar urethane. If this is too shiney you could try their Clear Satin to tone it down a little

   
4. 
   Dano | Feb 24, 2007 12:09am | #4

   Scott,

   Is the cedar used flat sawn or vertical grain (quarter sawn) and what are the dimensions of your glue ups?  Hate to answer a question with a question.  But.....

   The old saw in finishing; "do unto oneside as you do unto the other", does apply here, particularly if the stock was flat sawn.  Been quite awhile since I've looked at Lanes's current offerings.  I do know that my folks 50+ year old Lane cedar chest is out of vertical grain Southern Red Cedar and finished on the outside with varnish and is in excellent condition i.e, no warpage.

   I'd be very reluctant to put a film finish on this piece, if the stock were flatsawn.  FWIW.

   Dano

    

   "Form and Function are One" - Frank Lloyd Wright
1. 
   FFsthomas | Feb 25, 2007 03:29pm | #5

   Thanks for the info thus far

   The grain is flat sawn and I hope I answer your question right on the glue ups. The top is glued up about 20x45 the sides are 18x16. The front and back are 43x16. Hope this helps thanks. No board is more than five inches wide on the glue ups.

   Scott

1. 
   Dano | Feb 25, 2007 10:09pm | #6

   Scott,

   Any solid cedar chest I've made has been from vertical grain stock.  So I really can't give an absolute answer.  My suggestion would be to experiment with a lightly oiled finish using some offcuts or scrap first.  Bear in mind that you won't get the protection that you are mostly likely looking for.

   A small anecdote:  My better half's father built a chest of drawers out of flat sawn Western Red Cedar finished with Watco tung oil.  After two months of struggling with the glued up top warping (3" boards), he gave me a call.  When I asked him if he had finished the other side he told me he hadn't.  When he did do the other side, it flattened right out in about a weeks time.

   Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank Lloyd Wright

5. 
   dennisd | Feb 26, 2007 05:21am | #7

   I completed an aromatic cedar chest a few months ago (a gift for my brother-in-law).  I too agonized over the finish.  I finally went with a danish oil for the exterior.  I left the interior unfinished to take advantage of the aroma.  I was pleased with the result.  You get a natural low luster finish, which can be easily repaired if ever necessary.  Of course, application was very easy.

   I was concerned that the disparity between the finished exterior and unfinished interior could lead to warping due to uneven moisture absorption.  Did not seem to be an issue.  I joined the case with dovetail joinery so perhaps the mechanical bond helped.

   Good luck!