Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Dec 16, 2005 07:14pm | #1

   Mineral oil provides nothing for protection beyond a few weeks, tung oil is only a slight step up. Any film coating will be subject to scratching but a conversion varnish is one of the most durable. Have you considered going with a flat finish? I think they are very attractive and the scratches don't glare at you as much. I haven't seen a wood counter top in residential use for a long time. I think I would be looking at some of the better floor finishes like the moisture cure products, maybe some of the Swedish products or something like BonaKemi. Just a suggestion. You can't expect the homeowner to keep up with maintenance in my experience.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   RBenn | Dec 16, 2005 09:29pm | #2

   Thanks for your responce.  Your right. Life is a compromise.  I hesitate on surface finishes.  The harder the finish, the less it moves.  With 25+,-" of 1 1/4" solid material you have to expect movement and I am concerned that the finish would crack.  Any history with the products you suggested?

   I see that many contributers have a tag line.  Heres my attempt.

   -A fool can ask more questions than seven wisemen can answer.-

1. 
   hammer1 | Dec 20, 2005 07:20am | #9

   Hi RBenn,Sorry not getting back to you for a while, power outages due to an ice and snow storm. The last maple counters I made were for a bakery, unfinished and no sink. I have made restaurant tables, the type with laminate tops and wood edging, also many laminate counter tops with wood edges. My own is over 20 yrs. old and for most of them I used ordinary poly. It lasts about 10-12 yrs depending on abuse and cleaning agents. I have used BonaKemi WB on floors, tough product, takes some care in application. I have no experience repairing it. I think some of the commercially available wood counters are using floor type finishes. Some of these may be titanium or UV cure products, just like pre-finished flooring. Products made for flooring are some of the tougher finishes available. Many gym floors are still done in poly but they get redone regularly. WB products have a lot to offer, good chemical resistance, abrasion resistant, low VOCs, non yellowing. Here is a site that carries many brands.http://www.onlinefloorstore.com/store/mfgline/?id=6Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Dec 17, 2005 02:07am | #3

   If you seal the bottom of the wood with epoxy it's a good idea to seal the top with a comparable finish to avoid warping. Epoxy is water-proof and a good moisture barrier. If the top doesn't have an equivalent barrier it will absorb moisture and swell.

   I'd use catalyzed polyurethane (PU) for the finish, but conversion varnish (CV) is a good second choice. As long as it's properly catalyzed and applied correctly (not too thick and in the specified time frame), there should not be a concern with cracking.

   If the CV (or PU) does show excessive signs of wear and tear, you can sand it with very fine grit until uniformly dull and then wipe on a coat of oil-base varnish (e.g., Waterlox) and it'll look new again and be ready for use the next day. This can be a lucrative add-on service or warranty work, as desired.

   Paul
   http://www.finishwiz.com

1. 
   RBenn | Dec 19, 2005 04:43pm | #4

   Thank you Paul.  Any disadvantage to Waterlox from the start just to maintain finish adherence?

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Dec 20, 2005 02:00am | #8

   Adhesion isn't an issue, but Waterlox alone (or any other quality varnish) is a good choice. It's just slower curing than the catalyzed spray finishes. Apply enough coats to build a decent film and it will provide excellent protection that's easy to repair if needed.
   Paul
   http://www.finishwiz.com

3. 
   Kell | Dec 19, 2005 10:11pm | #5

   I used General Finishes Oil & Varnish, Satin Finish for mine.  Been on for about 16 months now and still looks good.  We're very good about wiping up standing water but otherwise no special treatment.  The sink is mounted in a hard maple butcher block that I built myself while the balance of the counters are black walnut; they also have that finish and are beginning to show some wear spots here and there where the traffic is most common.

   My main reason for choosing this finish was the ease in renewal.

   Kell

1. 
   RBenn | Dec 19, 2005 10:54pm | #6

   Is this finish a oil varnish mix or which?

    

1. 
   Kell | Dec 20, 2005 01:16am | #7

   Without looking at it, as I'm at work, I believe it's a tung oil and varnish combination.  I'll try to sneak out to the shop this evening and verify.

   Kell

4. 
   mike4244 | Dec 30, 2005 01:56am | #10

   Varathane plastic varnish.I think it is an epoxy, brushes on out of the can but I thin it. It is waterproof. I used this 12 years ago on a vanity top and hot tub outside panels.When I put on the first coat I had trouble getting the finish to level out, had to scrape high spots out when dry. Talked to a rep ,told me to thin the finish and double the amount of coats. This worked well, the tops and the panels still look new,even with small children using the vanities.Seal the underside too like you did with the epoxy. Varathane did not yellow with age like some varnishes.I think I pit on 5 thinned coats.

   mike

1. 
   RBenn | Dec 30, 2005 03:23pm | #11

   Mike

   What was the size and material of the vanity top?

1. 
   mike4244 | Dec 31, 2005 02:22am | #13

   The material was clear ponderosa pine. One top has a double sink, 25"x60" I think.The other top was a single sink, 25x36". The panels were also ponderosa pine, do not recall the size, about 18" high, maybe 60" long. The panels cover the plumbing and electrical below the spa.hot tub or whatever it's called.

   This was for my daughter, I tried to talk her out of wood for a vanity top. She really wanted wood, got the idea from some magazine. Went to the experts to see if this was feasible. That is how i came up with varathane.

   mike

5. 
   Pascanale | Dec 30, 2005 08:43pm | #12

   I've used marine grade poly on exterior teak with no issues of spiltting/cracking as long as the wood is sealed all four sides. If moisture doesn't invade the wood, the wood's normal movement is well within the tolerances of most good poly's. The marine poly I use is Interlux, Clipper #95 available from West Marine. One big feature of this product is its build and leveling. It almost appears to be a two part epoxy its so thick yet the levelers do a great job. As for durability, this is time-tested on teak decks and swim platforms being exposed to footwear, sunlight and water year-round. Otherwise, Varathane for all other applications.

   Pascanale