I’m working on a modified verion of the new-fangled workbench. The framing lumber in my area is spruce, not fir. Is there something that I should know about finishing spruce? I wasn’t planning to finish it, but the large boards that I got are actually quite nice and are worth the effort.
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Replies
For a workbench I wouldn't use any more finish than a couple of coats of an oil/varnish mix, either one you mix yourself from equal parts varnish, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits, or a purchased product such as Watco Danish Oil. Remember to thoroughly wipe off any excess oil since you don't want it to build a film. Spruce would be just fine for the base.
Thanks! I did get a can of Varathane Linseed oil finish. It will be easy to apply, and the grain comes out and looks very nice (on a scrap). I've got another question, though. Is there a chance that the oil finish on the table top rub into whatever workpiece I'll work with in the future, and affect their surfaces? I was thinking of sealing the oil in with a oil based varnish of some kind.
Is this a legit concern that oil finish on the workbench can rub off on whatever I will put on the bench just enough to affect finishing?
Not if the oil or oil/varnish mix is any of the drying oils--linseed oil, tung oil are the main ones. Non -drying oils, such as mineral oil or vegetable oils could conceivably rub off, but if applied correctly by wiping off excess oil after allowing a few minutes of penetration.
By Varathane Linseed oil finish I assume you mean a mixture of a Varathane varnish of some variety with Linseed oil presumably boiled linseed oil. If correct, and even if the linseed oil were raw linseed oil, such an oil finish will fully cure, essentially in a matter of days, and fully in a matter of a month or so. After the first few days that would be absolutely no potential to rub off on anything.
A film finish, such as a varnish, is a bad idea on a work bench. It makes them slick when often you need to keep items from moving while you work on them. They will become scratched or damaged and would be hard to repair.
bench finish
I agree with Steve.
On my bench I just used Tung oil. Once a year I give the bench a 'going over" and then apply one more wipe of the Tung oil. It is enough to stop major problems like glue sticking or staining but is not too slippery for hand plane work and generally holding the work in place to work on it. Makes the bench look (and smell) nice too.
Robert.
What about Danish oil? Does anyone knwow about.
Danish oil is just one name given to a mix of oil and varnish. Other names include "Teak Oil", or "Antique Oil" or "Tung OIl Finish"
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