Replies

1. 
   noone51 | Dec 19, 2002 07:26pm | #1

   My personal opinion is that the Random Orbital Sanders (round bottom) out perform the square Orbital Sanders (square bottom).  I don't think they are that much lighter than the new square OS's but I find that I use far less pressure to get the job done. I have a cheapo B&D ROS that I have been using extensively for the past couple of years and it's never had a problem. The hook and loop pad version that I have is very convienent but there is a price to pay for that and that's in the cost of the paper. All in all, I think I would buy another one if this one fails.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Dec 19, 2002 08:20pm | #2

   I still favor and use a half sheet obital sander. Nothing beats it for flattening a panel and keeping it flat while you sand. ROS tend to dig in and end up creating a wavy top when used less than carefully. The ROS sander--particularly the more aggessive ones--I put in somewhat the same category as the belt sander. Fine for taking off material quickly, but you need to know what you are doing. If you want a really flat surface, I think the large, flat orbital sander is the way to go.

1. 
   BG | Dec 20, 2002 02:53am | #3

   Howie,

   I'm probably going to stay with a 1/2 sheet type.  I've noticed several companies make one or more models with various prices and amperage.  Variable speed....not sure I see a value to that feature.  Any thoughts?

2. 
   noone51 | Dec 20, 2002 06:11am | #4

   Howie, I thought we were talking about sanding. You know, the step in the process that takes the nearly finished product to the point that it is nearly ready to be finished.

   What do you mean by talking about flatening wood with a sander? I'm confused.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Dec 20, 2002 07:20pm | #7

   Take a three foot long straight board or a long spirit level and lay it on a panel. If the panel and the straightedge touch at all spots, you have a flat panel. When you finish a panel that is not flat, you will see the less than flat spots quite easily.

   I use a belt sander or scraper to initially flatten the panel if it is well out of whack. And then I use my 1/2 sheet orbital sander to sand 120 through 180. If only minor flattening is required, I start with 80 or 100 on my orbital sander. The large, flat pad on this sander will sand but keep the panel flat. Final sanding is by hand with a felt covered wooden block and a 1/4 sheet of 180 paper using long strokes with the grain.

   Edited 12/20/2002 11:23:44 AM ET by Howie

1. 
   noone51 | Dec 20, 2002 07:58pm | #8

   Oh, I was envisioning someone attempting to flatten a really cupped or windy piece of material with a sander. Thanks for explaining.

3. 
   JeffKurtz | Dec 20, 2002 07:24am | #5

   I've had a Makita that takes 1/4 sheets for several years now.  Bought a Bosch ROS with the round pads and dust collection filter and the Makita hasn't been out of the cabinet since.  The Bosch is faster, and leaves a much better surface.

   Jeff

4. 
   eximreb | Dec 20, 2002 04:33pm | #6

   If your budget will handle it, porter-cable makes a 1/2 sheet sander & a great dust system, & it will take your sticky sandpaper

5. 
   MikeK50 | Dec 23, 2002 01:55am | #9

   I have four primary sanders in two types.

   I use a Porter Cable 7335 right angle 5" ROS for large piece stock prep.  I use the smaller PC 333 for smaller projects.

   For finish sanding, I use the PC 505 on large projects and the PC 330 for smaller projects.

   The round ROS machines remove more stock faster, but I find that the PC 505 and 330 finsih sanders provide a finer, more swirl free surface.

   Mike

1. 
   BG | Dec 23, 2002 02:34am | #10

   Guys,

   The hardware store had four boxes of brushes but none matched mine.  So I guess its a new sander...or maybe two.  You all seem to agree on the Bosch, PC...what about Milwaukee..anybody got one? 

1. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 24, 2002 04:24am | #11

   I have a 4x24 Bosch VS belt sander with a sanding frame that is great for serious work and flattening.  Next is the Bosch 3107 (I think) VS ROS I use from 80 to 150 grit.  It's a fairly aggresive pistol grip 2-hander style.  The brake on this older model isn't as good as some of the newer models so it takes a bit more care when landing and taking off to avoid swirl marks.  Next I use my sweet lilltle Makita palm style ROS.  It's less aggressive than the Bosch and leaves nary a swirl mark in the 180 to 220 grits.  It also uses the same 5" 8 hole discs as the Bosch.  The thoughtful folks at Makita even put directional arrows on the base to remind you which direction to land and takeoff.  Not a big deal, but certainly helpful after 6 or 8 straight hours of mind-numbing sanding.  I also have PC and Makita 1/4 sheet orbitals that don't see much action at all.  I use the PC to hit roundovers, something I just don't like to use the ROS for.  The H&L disks may cost a bit more but they can be removed and later reused and when connected to a good vac the DC performance is superior which tends to lengthen the life of the disks.  I get way more use out of a Mirka or Klingspor H&L disk than the 3M Stickit I use on my 1/4 sheet palm sanders.

   We all like what we like and have developed techniques that work for us.  If you decide to stay with a 1/2 sheet orbital you may want to check out the Fein.  If it's on par with their other tools it's probably sweet.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   BG | Dec 24, 2002 06:55am | #12

   John,

   Believe me, I'm taking all this in.  My key reason for the square type sander is to keep the sandpaper organized and as simple a possible.  Also, it is a bit easier for me to avoid putting scratches in adjoining wood going in a perpendicular direction with a square sander....

   Bottom line, I hate sanding, and tend to be to aggressive.    

1. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 24, 2002 07:43pm | #13

   I hate it too.  My last big commission was 14 high-back Stickley dining chairs.  # parts X 4 surfaces X 5 grits was over 4000 passes.  This was several consecutive days of all-day sanding.  A couple more things.  I tried Makita's countour pad (thick, flexible, foam) which, conveniently enough, velcros to the regular pad.  Problem is the added weight is too much for the brake so even more care is required to avoid swirl marks.  On fine work I will hand sand with 220 after the 2nd grain raising.  This really helps even out the different scratch patterns between an orbital and an RAS.  Neither is all that noticable on their own, put put 'em together and stain them (especially with gel stain) and it looks like crap.  3M make a nice foam 5" H&L hand sanding pad with an elastic strap.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne