Replies

1. 
   Gretchen | Jul 30, 2002 02:56pm | #1

   I think you should have stripped it first, not sanded.  You probably just had a very dirty table top with a worn shellac (maybe) finish.  You may not have gotten all the finish off by sanding. I would get some stripper and be sure all the finish is off.  Wipe liberally with mineral spirits to remove all vestiges of stripper.  The color it is with the spirits is the color you will get with a clear finish, such as varnish.  If that color is ok then proceed to wipe on about 8 coats of 50/50 wipe on varnish/mineral spirits.   If the color is not ok for you then stain and then wipe on the varnish.

   Gretchen
1. 
   benraymond | Jul 30, 2002 03:05pm | #2

   Thanks Gretchen - Any stripper recommendations?

1. 
   Gretchen | Jul 30, 2002 06:11pm | #3

   Any methylene chloride stripper will do a good job and yours shouldn't be a big job of removal.Gretchen

2. 
   benraymond | Aug 02, 2002 05:27am | #10

   Thanks again for the input.  I'm going to strip the table this weekend.  I'm thinking about shellacking the top and then putting on some poly.  The wipe-on varnish suggestion - Any brands you particularly like?  Should I bother with the shellack coat first?  Again, this is a kitchen table and I have two boys, so the finish has to be tough.

   Thanks,

   Ben

1. 
   Gretchen | Aug 02, 2002 02:15pm | #12

   I don't think you need to bother with the shellac. As I said check the color it will be by the color when it is wet with mineral spirits. Then you will know whether you want to stain it.  You can make your own wipe on by diluting varnish with mineral spirits--50/50.  Much cheaper than buying "wiping varnish" which is just diluted varnish.  I prefer non-poly varnish--I think it gives a warmer look.  You will need to wipe on at least 8 coats for the top--six is probably enough for sides and legs.Gretchen

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 30, 2002 07:31pm | #4

   Gretchen is right on. When dealing with old, gummy, grimy finishes, always strip it completely and start over. It eliminates many problems and you will have a nicer, more durable finish when you are done.

   MC is the best stripper. Look for the products that have the longest list of cautions. Those are the ones you want. The more cautions, the better it will work. Follow the directions and be sure to neutralize per their instructions. Personally, I like to use a water rinseable type for stripping solid wood tabletops. That way you can aggressively use a stiff, plastic bristled brush to get all the gunk out of cracks and pores.

1. 
   Gretchen | Jul 31, 2002 04:57am | #5

   Personally, I like to use a water rinseable type for stripping solid wood tabletops. That way you can aggressively use a stiff, plastic bristled brush to get all the gunk out of cracks and pores.

   Thanks for the back up Howie but you know I am going to go after using water as the clean up.  It raises the grain to "heaven" and you have to sand so much--and you don't have to do it.  If you use mineral spirits it is so much more  "gentle" and almost no sanding.  Hence you save the surface of the wood, particularly on refinishing projects--you aren't sacrificing so much of the surface of the wood.Gretchen

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 31, 2002 05:52pm | #6

   This spring, I did a 42x72x1.5 cutting board type oak tabletop--it was a heavy sucker. Once the surface had dried it took maybe a half an hour with a card scraper to remove the raised grain and get to a surface just about ready for finish. Then I just sanded with 180 with my pad sander and then hand sanded with 180.

   However, how can I argue with "gentler?"

1. 
   Gretchen | Jul 31, 2002 05:58pm | #7

   But when I use mineral spirits as the cleanup I only have to lightly sand.  I do use a dull putty knife and steel wool to remove the stripper so that is a bit of leveling action there too.Gretchen

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 01, 2002 05:45am | #8

   Just found out today that the manufacturer of my water rinseable paint remover has discontinued the product. Guess I will be using the standard stuff now.

   You win by default <g>

2. 
   Gretchen | Aug 01, 2002 02:40pm | #9

   You win by default <g>

   I hate it when that happens!  <g>     But that is interesting.  Actually I don't think I have seen water rinsable strippers for a while--but I may not have looked.Gretchen

3. 
   SgianDubh | Aug 02, 2002 07:37am | #11

   And an additional problem with water neutralised strippers, Howie, that require heavy sanding and scraping after the water has raised the grain is that this tends to make any original base dying 'blotchy' or 'patchy' at minimum. Those strippers neutralised with mineral spirits I find usually need no sanding, or minimal sanding only, and certainly no scraping thus largely preserving the original base colour or dye. It's just a wee bit easier to rebuild colour in the polish over the original dye than it is starting from scratch. This is handy if all you're stripping is the top that has to eventually match the original unstripped legd/base, etc, but as you can't seem to find a supplier of the water neutralised stuff anymore, maybe this point is now moot. Got to watch those Methelyne Chloride strippers though-- they'll eventually eat into glue joints, which can lead to failure and split table tops, etc.. Slainte, RJ.RJFurniture