Replies

1. 
   LRutherfor1 | Jul 22, 2002 08:10pm | #1

   I use red oak for most of my projects, and use both plywood and solids.  I use a hand-rubbed oil based stain (I usually stain all the visible parts prior to assembly to avoid glue voids in the stain), and several layers of spar varnish or poly.  The hand-rubbing will allow you to blend the stain in the different shades of the oak.

   Good Luck, Len (Len's Custom Woodworking)

2. 
   sschefer | Jul 22, 2002 08:18pm | #2

   You may want to look into a paste filler to level the surface. Those peanut butter and jelly stains can be pretty tough to get out of oak. Its one of the reasons that maple is becomming popular again for kitchen cabinets.

   Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   Stray | Jul 24, 2002 03:19pm | #3

   THanks for the sugestions guys.

   Steve,

   Is the paste filler you mention like one of those wood fillers pre-tinted for certain species? I have a small can of "red oak" wood filler...is this the stuff, or is the paste filler entirely different?

   Thanks again.

1. 
   sschefer | Jul 24, 2002 06:24pm | #4

   Thats the stuff.Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   Stray | Jul 24, 2002 10:43pm | #5

   Thanks Steve,

   If you don't mind further questions....

   Would you suggest tinting the filler with the oil stain I plan on using, or just use the "red oak" filler out-of-the-can first, then apply stain to surface of the whole piece after the paste filler sets up?

   Thanks,

   E

1. 
   sschefer | Jul 24, 2002 11:15pm | #6

   You know, I can't answer that. I think Dano is pretty good with this stuff and if not check with Jeff Jewitt over at homestead finishing - http://www.homesteadfinishing.com

   Steve - in Northern California

2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 25, 2002 12:26am | #7

   Do NOT use the filler in the little can. Paste wood filler is not even close to the same as wood filler. Filling the grain is a perference issue and is most often reserved for a "high end" finish on a table top or similar surface. IMO it's not a choice to seriously consider on a toy or blanket chest (except maybe the top if I wanted the added look). The finish you use will fill the pores enough that you won't need to worry about peanut butter or anything of that nature. Here's an article on paste wood fillers - http://www.wwforum.com/faqs_articles/fillers.html

   To select a finish, refer to the links I provided in the post "Define 'varnish'" - there's a lot of good info. Personnaly, I'd use an oil-base varnish, oil/varnish blend, or poly on the chest - using the wipe-on method for simplicity. If it's going to get beat up alot, I'd go with an easy to repair finish like the oil/varnish blend.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

3. 
   goldhiller | Jul 25, 2002 04:03am | #8

   Ditto to Paul's post.

4. 
   Alan | Jul 25, 2002 05:12am | #9

   Paul is on the money.

   It astonishes me that more people don't know the difference between wood putty--which is too often labeled with the misnomer "wood filler"--and real wood filler.

   I was in a big box and thought I might see if they had any wood filler--not putty--to save myself a trip to my local (thirty miles away) woodworkers' store.  I finally asked an employee, who promptly led me to all their wood putties.  I explained what I wanted, and began to explain the difference when he interrupted me with "hold on.  First, what's the project?"  As though me telling him what I was making would erase his ignorance and enable him to sell me something I didn't want.

   Sigh.

   Alan