Replies

1. 
   Alan | Jun 19, 2002 11:57pm | #1

   Sequel,

   Try shellac.  Shellac has  long been a staple of fine finishing; its application is much easier than most other finishes; and it is often applied as a base coat to eliminate the "splotchies" that otherwise can be a problem.  It comes in various shades from almost completely clear to a rich dark brown.  Just about its only limitation is to not use it anyplace it would get wet or have alcohol or other solvents spilled on it.

   Shellac has a shelf life.  It can have trouble drying/curing if it has been mixed for more than about six months.  Do not trust the retailer.  Unmixed, shellac flakes can last practically forever.  So your best bet is to buy some flakes through the mail or, if you're lucky, you may have a local dealer.  To mix it up about all you need is some denatured alcohol (from your local paint store, hardware or big box) and a  jelly jar to put it in.  Use the alcohol for clean up too.

   Applying shellac is much easier than most finishes.  Mix yourself a one pound cut (a one pound cut is the equivalent of one gallon of alcohol mixed with one pound of shellac flakes.) and filter--it through a paint filter or an old pair of nylon stockings--into the jelly jar.  Paint it on with a good brush along the grain.  Any spills, drips, streaks or other defects can be easily fixed with some 0000 steel wool dipped in alcohol or the mixed shellac--while the shellac is still wet or when it has completely dried.

   You can finish shellac to any degree of gloss you want, from a glassy French polish (not a good idea for your first project) to rough.  One of my favorite finishes is to apply five or six coats of shellac followed by good quality wax.  I make my own wax from carnuba, bees' wax and turpentine; I put on two or three applications that I buff to a gentle shine.

   The usual disclaimers.

   Try shellac.  You might like it.

   Alan

2. 
   RLMillard | Jun 20, 2002 01:46am | #2

   The key to showing the full potential of the grain is oil. I think oil by itself is a poor finish. I think shellac is a great finish and so is padding lacquer, but neither is very durable from a wear standpoint, so I won’t use them for table tops. Polyurethane as you found out, has little or no ability to enhance the grain, but varnish does, although it may be to "thick" for your tastes. Lacquer is a good compromise between depth, clarity and durability. Also, some woods benefit from a weak dye solution, being applied before the oil, with curly and birdseye maple being good candidates.