Replies

1. 
   NormInFujino | May 31, 2002 07:16pm | #1

   >>

   Are there any finishes that will withstand weather changes and not need to be reapplied?

   Hah!

    Not to be so cynical, I guess it rather depends on what you're willing to put up with, or define as "not needing reapplying." Basically, though, no. Any outdoor finish will need to be reapplied if you want it remain looking new. On the other hand, if you're willing to put up with various degrees of natural aging, you can put off reapplications to longer intervals (2-3 years instead of annually, etc.). My favorite thusfar is the German Xyledecor.

2. 
   forestgirl | May 31, 2002 07:38pm | #2

   We used to sell some gorgeous cedar adirondack furniture made in Canada.  I think they used Danish oil, but not sure.  I kept one piece, which is in storage, and will check the tag and find out for you.

   Important:  They included a tag with instructions on renewing the finish (for the customer). 

   Of course, the other option is to use cedar, cypress or teak, and leave it natural.  Depends on what people might want.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   sschefer | May 31, 2002 07:46pm | #3

   I would use an exterior UV protectant stain if you want to keep the wood looking new and well preserved. If thats not the objective and you want to sell more of the items then make them out of a wood that deterioates quickly and don't finish them at all.

   However, if you want to create a reputation for an excellent product and maintain a repeat customer base, make them out of unfinished woods that weather well and let them age naturally.

   Steve - in Northern California

4. 
   LRutherfor1 | May 31, 2002 07:46pm | #4

   Living in the desert (Las Vegas metropolitan area), anything I build is subject to some of the harshest weather conditions you could put wood in.  I build and finished some 8' oak doors for a client two years ago.  The doors were installed on the west side of the home where it get the full brunt of the afternoon sun and 115+ degrees of heat. I used a marine spar varathene (5 coats) for the finish.  I was at the house last week and they still maintain the finish.  Of course we get hardly any rain here (.25" over the past 12 months), but I've used the spar on boats, and it works well.  Hope this helps.

   Len (Len's Custom Woodworking)

1. 
   MPHarper | May 31, 2002 10:54pm | #5

   Thanks for the advice everyone. 

   I want to make a quality product that will last.  I like the idea of using teak, redwood, or cedar but don't have a good supplier.  A good finish should do the trick, unless anyone knows a reputable supplier?

   Matt-

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 01, 2002 12:24am | #6

   What area of the country are you in?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   MPHarper | Jun 01, 2002 04:53am | #8

   Forest Girl,

   I am in Utah.  I don't know of any teak, cedar, or redwood suppliers.  I can get dimenstioned redwood and cedar from Home Depot but is all construction grade and dimensions.

   Are there any good online dealers?

   Matt-

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 01, 2002 05:14am | #9

   Hi Matt.  You might want to check Edensaw  at http://www.edensaw.com (I think!).  As soon as the Mariner's get through this inning, I'll run out to the Blazer and check on the finish on that chair for you.

   PS:  I just checked their website, and they have the woods listed, but no price info.  The email address is [email protected] and phone number is Toll-Free: (877) 333-6729

   They have a store in Seattle and in Port Townsend, WA  It's a pretty big outfit, but excellent quality.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   Edited 5/31/2002 10:23:05 PM ET by forest_girl

2. 
   forestgirl | Jun 01, 2002 05:28am | #10

   Hi again Matt, Mariners are going into extra innings.  Oh Well. 

   At any rate, although I didn't find the paperwork for it, I'm certain that this furniture is finished with Danish oil.  The advantage of using that, for customers, is that when it comes time to re-apply, it doesn't take any great expertise on their part -- it's very user friendly.  When we had our store, the furniture by this company sold extremely well, and we never had any complaints.  I guess the little "Future Care" piece of paper was something I, as the store owner, received copies of in a separate envelope and I've since given them all out to customers.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   forestgirl | Jun 01, 2002 05:39am | #11

   Sorry for monopolizing the conversation here, LOL.  As it happens, I stopped by our local lumber store on the way home to get a price-list for cedar, as I'm going to make a few chairs for 4th of July.  So, I'll post them here.  These prices are for S4S clear cedar right off the lumber rack, so if you have a planer and a jointer, you can undoubtedly do better than this.

   2x6     3.05/LF

   1x6     1.35/LF    

   2x2       .65/LF

   1x4       .69/LF

   1x3       .50/LF

   I got prices for tight knot too, just in case the quality is good enough that the knots can be relegated to waste, and save some money that way, but I've not laid eyes on the wood yet.

   Note:  You might want to look in the phone book under "Fencing Materials" or something like that and see if there's cedar to be found there.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

4. 
   forestgirl | Jun 01, 2002 07:01am | #13

   Whoa!!! Guess what. . .

   I found the paperwork!!  :-)  Should have remembered -- it's finished with "Superdeck".  That may be a Canadian brand, but for future care they recommend a similar treatment periodically.  It smells and feels like an oil-based wipe-on treatment.

   I stick to my guns with regard to cedar being a good wood for this purpose.  I've sat in many a chair here, in the Great Northwest, that's had years of use and has stood the test of time.  Dano's tips about chamfering, etc., are well-taken.   These chairs are chamfered all around, have inserts for the larger screws to fit into, and have a heavy treatment of Superdeck on them to start with.  They can be wiped clean with mild soap and a damp cloth for cleaning purposes.

   As I said in my pricing post, those were prices right off the shelf.  Obviously, for a production run, you'd want to buy in a different form, larger quanity, and hopefully at a discount.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

5. 
   Danford_C_ | Jun 01, 2002 07:13am | #14

   Jamie,

   You may have misunderstood; I said that Western Red Cedar is fine for "casual" furniture.  I too live in the Pacific Northwest and have sat in many a WRC chair, that did not withstand the "test of time" left unfinished, i.e. splinters in my butt.  As I posted over a year ago, I also have a picnic table that I built over 25 years ago out of Western Red Cedar, it was refinished for the first time last year.

   To find out I what I originally used for the finish, try a search in the Archives.....:-)

   Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright

6. 
   MPHarper | Jun 03, 2002 07:34am | #15

   Jamie and Dano,

   Thanks for the info.  You folks are the best.  I am looking for the lumber now, I found a design that I like with a few small modifications of my own.  This is going to be a lot of fun and I hope that in the end I will have built lawn furniture that will be beautiful and will stand the test of time.

   I'll post some photos when I am finished.

   Matt-

7. 
   Danford_C_ | Jun 04, 2002 05:36am | #16

   Matt,

   You're most welcome, don't hesitate to ask if the need arises.  Best of luck.

   Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright

5. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jun 01, 2002 01:08am | #7

   For exterior wood finishes, both sikkens.com and penofin.com have excellent products. They will need to be sanded and re-coated in a couple years though.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

6. 
   Danford_C_ | Jun 01, 2002 06:33am | #12

   Matt,

   Western Red Cedar is great for planter boxes and such but, not the best choice for outdoor furniture other than real casual pieces.  As to a "no maintenance" finish, it hasn't been invented.

   My suggestion would be to use a high quality marine grade spar or urethane varnish such as Interlux or Epifanes.  The decision to not finish at all should be predicated on the climate.  Even Teak, Western Red Cedar, and Bald Cypress can be attacked by mould and fungi left unfinished.  Danish Oil is a very poor finish for an exterior piece and will require more maintenance than a high quality marine grade finish.

   As Steve alluded to, marine grade varnishes have a high degree of UV protection that will not only protect the wood but, extend the life of the finish.  Other details on the piece can also help to extend the finish life; such as rounded and/or chamfered edges so they will recieve the same film thickness as the flat surfaces.

   Go the http://www.woodfinder.net to find a good source of lumber.  Buying your stock from a "box" store is not too wise; they sell by the lineal foot as opposed to the board foot (which is a volume measurement) this usually results in paying nearly 20% more than you would pay at the lumber yard.  FWIW.

   Dano

   "Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright