I am in proccess of making a bed for an antique show truck. it is made of red oak and red oak plywood. The bed is only for cosmetic appearance, nothing heavier than a picnic basket to be hauled. I want to fill the grain and seal it. Sunlight is a big concern. Hopefully it will be covered in the event of an unexpected rainshower. Does any one have recomendations for filling the grain? Suggestions for sealing? What about topcoat? The customer suggests spar varnish. I am open to input from some of our more “experienced masters of the trade”.THANKS, burley oak
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Replies
It is more important to cover on a bright sunny days. No clear finish will tolerate full sun all day every day. It's UV that is the main enemy, water is a minor problem in comparison, except in places where it could penetrate and not dry.
Spar varnish is good, but it must be real marine spar varnish. You will not find it in paint stores or the big boxes, it is just about only found in marine supply stores, or on-line. Good brand names include Interlux and Epifanes. They do not include Minwax or McCloskey. Expect to pay $25 per quart. Half a dozen coats is probably needed.
It might also be good to apply the varnish over a sealer of a couple of coats of low viscosity epoxy. Epoxy may waterproof, but it is not UV protective. It needs varnish to pretect the varnish. The epoxy waterproofing--both sides--helps reduce wood movement, which helps keep the varnish intact longer.
If its not too late, white oak is better for the weather, since if any moisture does penetrate the finish, it won't spread nearly as far since white oak pores are closed and red oak are open.
Steve; Is there anything specific about the epoxy sealer? Or, are they pretty much all the same? Let me be sure I get this right, low viscosity is thin so it will penetrate into the wood?
I really appreciate your input, I have never taken on a project like this, it certainly has been an education. This one will be the last for sure.
There is a FWW article recommending this approach that appeared in the past year. The author used a particularly low viscosity epoxy that he obtained from Jamestown Distributors. I believe 2 coats of CPES penetrating epoxy is what was used in that article. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/find;a;1;ID;;eclDrill;2886
MAS also makes what it calls a low viscosity epoxy though I don't think it is quite as thin as the CPES. Thicker epoxies might make it more difficult to achieve penetration and sealing without building too much of a thick "bar finish" look. Epoxy doesn't level as well as varnish, so you don't what to have to cope with a large build-up that would have to be smoothed by a large amount of sanding.
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